Maine:  How Life Should Be ... Just Add Wine

Wine Trails USA - Mid May 2008

By:  Jim Hofman, Owner & Publisher

There are several good reasons to visit Maine. 

Being Chicagoans, we've always enjoyed the changing of the seasons.  Spring brings rebirth and summer offers the warmth of all that's good about life.  Autumn arrives in a blaze of color, while winter has its own quiet sense of beauty.

And so, in our travels, we tend to gravitate toward areas offering the best of all four seasons.  We couldn't have found a better place than Maine.  Maine is mountains, lakes, and rivers - an outdoor sports enthusiast's paradise.  Maine is rugged picturesque coastline teeming with fresh seafood just waiting for you to sample.  Maine is National Parks and trendy beaches.  And Maine is a shopping and gastronomical delight.

Before we visited, a friend asked us, "Why Maine?"  We responded that there are several good reasons to visit Maine.  As we left after a one week visit, we agreed that we can't wait to return some day.  There's literally a new discovery around every turn.

Being wine inclined, one of the first questions we asked upon arriving in the oceanfront city of Portland was to a vendor at one of the city's farmers markets.  Are grapes grown in Maine?

Yes.  Grapes are grown here, despite a growing season 90 days shorter than Napa Valley.  Numerous hardy varieties thrive here, along with several delectable types of fruit.  We visited 7 wineries on this wonderful trip and enjoyed numerous well crafted wines, almost all produced from Maine grown grapes and fruit.

With our curiosity satisfied, our mid morning arrival via Amtrak's Downeaster from Boston gave us almost two full days to explore Portland, where just about everything is within sight or scent of the sea.

Upon checking into our accommodations, the historic Eastland Park Hotel, we learned that almost a third of Maine's population lives in the greater Portland area.  The city itself isn't large, with a population of about 65,000.  Like most port cities, you'll hear the foghorns of ferries, fishing boats, and other sea faring vessels throughout the day and evening.

We were drawn to the Old Port area, arriving a few hours in advance of our scheduled harbor excursion.  Brick and cobblestone streets are brimming with restaurants, art galleries, boutiques, and artisan shops.  The air here is fresh and cool, with the ever present smell of salt.  When you visit, climb the 102 steps to the view deck of the Portland Observatory for an invigorating view of the city and harbor below.

We'll fill you in more about Portland in our Recommendations section below, but one experience in particular merits mention.  To really get a flavor of Maine's coastline, take one of the many boat cruises or excursions available from Portland.  We were surprised that a few cruise lines make Portland their home port, offering everything from ocean excursions to Maine coast sightseeing trips.  We opted for a harbor cruise and were enchanted by a group of seals frolicking near one of the dozens of harbor islands.

The next morning, we set out north from Portland up Route 302, just about 1/2 hour to Blacksmiths Winery, in Casco.

Located at the former site of a blacksmiths shop, chances are good you'll be greeted with a tail wag from Allie, the resident winery dog and a chocolate lab rescued from the streets of New York.  Allie happily assists owner and winemaker Steve Linne.  Steve produces a rotating selection of almost two dozen wines, several of which will be available for tasting when you visit.

In the tasting room, we learned that Maine is well known for its blueberries.  In fact, Maine is America's largest wild blueberry growing state, and many make their way into Blacksmiths Winery's  Blueberry wine which is actually a blend of two wines. It is fragrant, off dry, and fruity, perfect for summer.

Blacksmiths also offers several traditional wine varieties, made from grapes imported from growers across the country.  But we so enjoyed the blueberry, and the fact it's born from Maine soil, that we sampled another "grown in Maine" wine, the Elderberry.

We learned that Elderberries are the one fruit that can produce a Bordeaux style wine, other than red wine grapes.  This wine is aged in French Oak barrels for 18 months, resulting in a rich red wine that's distinctly Maine.  The elderberries used in this wine are grown in the state, and the wine regularly sells out year after year.

After linking back to Maine's primary artery, Route 1, we headed to the Mid-Coast area and the town of Camden, our next overnight stop.

This area of Maine is appealing for all sorts of reasons.  Alphabetically, this mix of nouns and adjectives might paint a picture: cosmopolitan towns, farmstands, galleries, gardens, lighthouses, lobster, music festivals, picturesque harbors, sailing, seafood, and last but certainly not least, wineries.

There are four wineries in and around the town of Camden, known as the Jewel of the Maine Coast.  We can see why ... Camden is an idyllic harborside community with a climate that's tempered by the Atlantic Ocean.  Let's visit each of the wineries in this area to see what they have to offer.

Our first stop is Maine's very first winery, Cellar Door Winery and Vineyards, near Camden in the small community of Lincolnville. The winery is located on a farm that dates back to the 1790's, complete with a vineyard, orchards, and fruit trees.

Cellardoor is a fun place to visit and congregate.  There's always something to do here.  The gift shop and tasting room are located in an historic barn, dating back to the beginning days of the farm.  You'll find Maine artisan products, from food to crafts.  And of course, Cellardoor wines.  Let's have a taste ...

We started with the Cantina Porta (since that means cellar door in Italian).  This one awoke our taste buds like a good Chianti style red should.  You'll love the slightly spicy character.  Another can't miss is the Ned Said Red, a semi dry red made from chambourcin grapes.  Sticking with the Maine blueberry theme, we tried and proudly purchased the Blue Lobster Blue, and enjoyed it later with ... what else ... lobster and bleu cheese.

Next it was off to Union, just a few miles west from Camden harbor, for a stop at two wineries.  Union is home to Savage Oakes Winery and Sweetgrass Winery and Distillery.

We were intrigued by Savage Oakes tagline:  "Featuring Maine Wines From Maine Grown Grapes".  Owners Buddy and Holly Savage produce wine from nine different varieties of hybrid grapes, grown right on their 95 acre farm.  On our visit, seven wines were available, all interesting and well made blends that highlight Buddy's deft hand and passion for winemaking.

Particularly recommended are the Seyval Blanc, a dry white table wine, and the Come Spring, a light red wine blended from Marechal Foch and chambourcin grapes.  Savage Oakes has about 2000 vines, with a panoramic view of the farmland below.  We also took some time to visit with some of the farm animals who call this impressive property home.

Next, we took the short drive over to Sweetgrass Farm Winery and Distillery, the only combination winery/distillery in Maine.

Sweetgrass opened their winery in 2007, focusing upon fruit wines and their award winning Back River Gin, with fruit brandies next on the agenda.  It's a picture book property, with a hiking trail that travels through the farm and overlooks the Medomak River Valley.  Take advantage of the picnic area while enjoying a glass or two of their crisp and fruity Apple wine, or Bleujolais, a fruity and spicy blueberry offering.  Of special note, the wine labels on their bottles are works of art in and of themselves!

Next in our journey is Winterport Winery, just north of the harbor town of Rockport in Winterport.  Located right on Main Street in town, Winterport Winery has been open since fall 2001.  Owners Michael and Joan Anderson proudly oversee the 3200 square foot winery, complete with a tasting room that's particularly popular in the late spring and summer.

Winterport's forte is fruit wine, and it was a lot of fun for us to compare the Maine fruit wines from winery to winery.  When we first started getting interested in wine and wineries many years ago, we were fortunate enough to learn to approach each winery with an open mind.  If we hadn't opened our minds and palates, we'd never considered trying some of these highly enjoyable wines.  We encourage you to do the same, and remember, there are no rules with wine.  Drink and enjoy what you want, and don't worry about so called experts who tell you what's good and what isn't.
 

At Winterport Winery, I was immediately drawn to The Flying Dutchman, a blackberry port.  Only after tasting it did I find it was a silver medal winner at the 2007 Indy State Wine Competition.  Full bodied and rich, it's a fine choice for after dinner.  Continuing on the blueberry quest, Winterport's Blueberry offering trends in style to a Merlot, with fruit flavors up front and a balanced dry finish.

The tasting room staff at Winterport was especially friendly and accommodating.  It's a perfect place to ask questions, learn about wine, and compare notes.

After enjoying a full morning of shopping and strolling in these charming coastal towns, it was on the road again.  Our destination is Bar Harbor, in the shadow of Acadia National Park.

This area of Maine, known locally as DownEast, is the easternmost part of the state.  You'll find authentic working harbors, incredible scenery, historic villages, and fresh seafood.
         
The main community in this area is Bar Harbor, and it's a place to linger for a few days.  Bar Harbor has a charming shopping district in the village center, and shops along Route 3. We were impressed by the great diversity of shops, galleries and boutiques, and how easy it was to walk amongst them.  If you're looking for something distinctive, chances are you'll find it in Bar Harbor shops.  Most of the shops in the village are located on West, Cottage, Mt. Desert and Main Streets, but don't overlook the shops tucked away on side streets.
  

As you travel along the Maine coast, you'll understand why this state is so immersed in agriculture, even as far north as it is.  The ocean moderates the climate, with typical summer temperatures in the 60's to 80's.  Winter temperatures benefit as well, with a typical range of 20 to 40 degrees, certainly not unbearable.

As a result, various crops thrive.  You'll find ample evidence as you move between coastal towns, with numerous farmstands and farmers markets along the way.  The two wineries in this area take full advantage of Maine's bounty - Bar Harbor Cellars in Bar Harbor, and Bartlett Maine Estate Winery in Gouldsboro.

Bar Harbor Cellars is actually located on Mt. Desert Island, easily accessible by bridge.  On the island, you can visit both the winery and the nearby Atlantic Brewing Company, which offers exceptionally good Maine microbrews.

Bar Harbor Cellars, established in 2003, will begin to use grapes from their own vineyard beginning this year.  We tasted the Maine Meadows Apple wine, and immediately asked if we were given a riesling instead.  We learned that Bar Harbor Cellars ages their apple wine for two years, giving it an exceptionally smooth character.  Highly recommended.  Also, take some time to wander around in their gift shop, featuring all sorts of local products, some of which are from the Bar Harbor Cellars farm, on which the winery is located.

Navigating along the Maine coast on the road to Acadia National Park, you'll see a large granite sculpture which marks the entrance to Bartlett Maine Estate Winery, the largest winery in Maine.

For 25 years, winemaker Bob Bartlett has pushed the envelope to produce some of the most superbly drinkable fruit wines in the country, with numerous awards and recognition to his credit.

The winery produces about 7000 cases per year, trying different varieties ranging from dry wines to sweeter dessert styles.  The tasting room, housed in a unique stone building, offers a taste of these complex wines.  The pear wines here are exceptional, don't miss them.  Just as appealing to us was the Coastal White, a blend made from pears and apples and medium dry.

Bartlett's Blueberry Winemakers Reserve was a special treat.  Made only in years when Bob feels the fruit is exceptional, this gem is aged in French oak barrels and was reminiscent to us of an outstanding cabernet.  Suffice it to say, we took home a mix and match case from this winery, and wish we'd bought more.

It was a week in Maine, and very tough to leave.  It was our first time here, and hopefully we'll be back.  There's more to the state than the coastal area, and it's in the back of my mind to ski here some day.  Even though any time is nice for a visit to Maine, summer and fall really showcase the state.  We truly hope you get a chance to experience Maine!

Until next time ...

Cheers!

Recommendations:

Portland, Maine

Eastland Park Hotel: www.eastlandparkhotel.com  Wonderful historic hotel walking distance to Portland's Old Port area.  Pets not only welcomed but pampered!  Be sure to visit the Top of the East Lounge for a panoramic view of the city.

Casco Bay Harbor Cruises: www.cascobaylines.com Choose from sunrise, mid day, sunset, or moonlight cruises.  Enjoyable!

Gritty McDuff's Brewpub:  www.grittys.com  Yes, we love our brewpubs!  Happiness = Sitting at Gritty McDuff's copper top bar with a pint of their Vacationland Golden Ale and a barley coated fried haddock sandwich.

More Portland Visitor Info:  www.visitportland.com

Cappy's Chowder House:  www.cappyschowder.com Get your Maine seafood fix here, in the heart of Camden, ME right on the water.

Rollie's Bar and Grill:  www.rollies-bar-n-grill.com On the harbor in the small town of Belfast, this is where the locals go. Very good and very reasonable.  Eat well, blend in, have fun!

Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens:  www.mainegardens.org  Located right on the bayfront in Boothbay, about an hour from Portland.  Spectacular gardens with native wildflowers and hiking trails.

State of Maine Cheese Company:  www.cheese-me.com  Pick up or ship a taste of Maine from this fascinating store in Rockport.

DownEast

Acadia National Park:  www.nps.gov/acad  The 2nd most visited National Park in the country.  Take the 27 mile Park Loop Road to experience some of the most dramatic scenery you can imagine.

Beals Lobster Pier:  www.bealslobster.com  In Southwest Harbor near Mt. Desert Island.  Fish, clams, and lobster right off the boat ... literally!

Bar Harbor, Maine:  www.barharborinfo.com  Warm and welcoming small town with a charming shopping district and plenty of dining and overnight options.  This is the perfect town to begin your exploration of DownEast and Acadia.

Bark Harbor:  www.barkharbor.com  One of the many great specialty shops in Bar Harbor, this one specializing in gifts for your pet.

Atlantic Brewing Company:  www.atlanticbrewing.com  10 minutes from downtown Bar Harbor.  Tour and taste, try the Blueberry Ale.

Wineries

Cellar Door Winery and Vineyards - www.mainewine.com

Bartlett Maine Estate Winery - www.bartlettwinery.com

Bar Harbor Cellars - www.barharborcellars.com

Blacksmiths Winery - www.blacksmithswinery.com

Savage Oakes - www.savageoakes.com

Winterport Winery - www.winterportwinery.com

Sweetgrass Farm Winery and Distillery -  www.sweetgrasswinery.com


Please visit our "Wine Tours" section for more photos of Maine Wineries and Attractions.