The Hermann, Missouri Wine Trail:  America's First Wine District

Wine Trails USA - February 2008

by Jim Hofman, Owner & Publisher

America's fascinating wine making history is rooted in the efforts of European immigrants, who brought their skills to America throughout the 1800's.  Long before California and other west coast wine producing states were settled, other areas of the country were busy producing wines from native grape vines growing in the wild.  In the 1830's, a group of German immigrants settled in the Missouri river valley, about an hour west of St. Louis near the present historic town of Hermann, Missouri.

Hermann's founding fathers and town leaders noted the prolific growth of wild grapes in the nearby hillsides, and encouraged new immigrants to grow grapes by providing low cost land grants.  Having brought their winemaking skills from Germany, settlers gladly began tending grape vines and producing wine.  Within a few years, the area around Hermann became known for wine production, and American's very first wine district was born.

For the most part, wine making has continued in this area since the 1830's.  Now, the Hermann Wine Trail and the historic villages in the area comprise a beckoning destination for wine travel.  From the town of New Haven, MO on the east to historic Hermann on the west, this 20 mile stretch of beautiful Missouri river valley scenery boasts of seven wineries accounting for more than 30% of Missouri's wine production.

Missouri has long been known for deep, rich red wines typically produced from traditional grape varieties such as Norton and Chambourcin.  Wineries in this area use these native grapes to develop award winning varietes of Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignons, and Burgundy styles.  But these wineries aren't all about reds, as winemakers on this wine trail also produce clean and delightfully crisp styles like rieslings and chardonels.

A visit to the central Missouri wine trail usually begins with a visit to St. Louis.  St. Louis, the famed "Gateway to the West", is a thriving, vibrant city that's a personal favorite of ours.  Historic districts like Soulard, Laclede's Landing, and Central West End help define a city that embraces its past while forging ahead.  Let's talk about St. Louis for a while before we head west to Missouri wine country.

We love spending 2 or 3 days in St. Louis, embracing the city's passion for music and cuisine.  One of our first stops is O'Connell's Pub, just a few minutes west of downtown.  O'Connell's sits at the intersection of Shaw Boulevard and is just 1/2 block south of I-44 at the Kingshighway exit.  Since 1962, O'Connell's has served the same great burgers and french dip sandwiches in a quaint, friendly atmosphere.  Easy on the wallet, O'Connell's is the perfect stop for lunch.  Just don't ask for a tomato at O'Connell's ... they don't serve them!
 

The building housing O'Connell's was actually built in 1905 by Anheuser Busch, and history lingers inside.  You'll notice the two beautiful chandeliers in the bar area - they're from the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair, having originally decorated the Belgian exhibition hall.  O'Connell's is a bustling and friendly destination, and a great place to rub shoulders with the locals and learn more about St. Louis.

Just up the street on Shaw Boulevard is the locally treasured Hill District.  Steeped in Italian tradition, The Hill is nationally recognized for its historic architecture and acclaimed Italian restaurants.  You'll feel like you're in Italy as you wander the compact streets and hear Italian spoken amongst the residents.

The Hill is a perfect afternoon destination, perfect for wandering in an out of whatever local businesses call to you.  Specialty shops, bakeries, restaurants, and taverns abound.  We'll list a few of our favorites at the end of this issue, but suffice it to say you really can't go wrong wherever you stop in on The Hill.  Stock up on traditional Italian baked goods, meats, and sausages, and end your day at one of The Hill's almost two dozen locally owned eateries.

There are plenty of traditional sightseeing attractions in St. Louis, almost all of which are extremely affordable and perfect for any age.  The famed Gateway Arch sits along the St. Louis riverfront and offers an historical overview of western expansion as well as a tram ride to the 630 ft. level observation deck.

Just a few blocks away from the Gateway Arch is historic Laclede's Landing, complete with shops, bars, restaurants, and lively entertainment into the wee hours.  For another slice of history, drive down Broadway about one mile south of downtown, where you'll enter historic Soulard, known as St. Louis' oldest neighborhood.

Soulard is a diverse historic community sprinkled with a bit of Mardi Gras all year around.  Soulard's centerpiece is the historic Soulard Market, complete with fresh produce and food vendors.  Walking amidst the streets in this area, you'll notice a sense of restoration and pride, particulary in the ever present red brick architecture.  This is a great place to both start and end your day.  Pick up some fresh bakery from a Soulard Market vendor for breakfast, and enjoy dinner, drinks, and music at one of Soulard's many restaurants and night spots.  See our St. Louis Recommendations area for specifics.

While we can only touch upon all the things to do in St. Louis, a must stop is St. Louis' premier wine destination, Riddle's Penultimate Cafe and Wine Bar, located in yet another terrific St. Louis neighborhood, The Loop on Delmar Boulevard.  Riddle's is a restaurant and wine bar with a style all its own, eschewing any label.  The menu changes daily, offering a new pleasant surprise on each visit.  Two dozen wines by the glass are offered, including Missouri selections like the Augusta Winery Norton, with flavors of cherry, huckleberry, and hints of cinnamon.

Riddle's offers over 300 wines by the bottle, and its location in the midst of

On To Wine Country-

Let's leave the city behind for now, and begin our short journey to the heart of Missouri Wine Country.  From St. Louis, travel west on Interstate 44 to Missouri Highway 100, continuing on Highway 100 twenty miles to the town of New Haven.  This charming village is the eastern edge of the wine trail and is home to historic Robller Vineyard and Winery, which offers a spectacular view of the Missouri river valley.

Robller, a family owned operation, is about as perfect a setting for a picnic as any we've seen.  This is a great place to spend a few hours, relaxing on the grounds and enjoying a bottle of Robller's rich, full bodied Norton or the Seyval, a citrusy dry white.  The owners are big supporters of all Hermann wine trail events and there's usually a different fun and inviting event at the winery every month.

Just west of New Haven and on your way toward Hermann is the Bommarito Almond Tree Winery, a family owned estate winery producing a savory award winning port, among other offerings.  Enjoy the patio in the summer, and the warm fireplace during colder months.  Bommarito produces about 1500 gallons of wine annually, all under the watchful eye of owner Nick Bommarito and family.

A few miles west, actually just off of Highway 100 north on Route B, is Bias Vineyards and Winery.  Situated on a 64 acre farm and featuring a microbrewery and winery, only the 2nd such operation in the United States. When you arrive, you'll be high above the Missouri River on bluffs, affording a scenic view of dozens of miles. Be sure to try Bias' River Blush Rouge, an easy drinking friendly blush.

Also at Bias, we were smitten with their dry red Chambourcin, born from grapes just 600 feet from their tasting room.  This style is prevalent on the Hermann wine trail, so you'll have to sample and compare.
 

After leaving Bias, it's only about 6-7 miles to the picture book historic city of Hermann, population 2800.  In and around Hermann, four thriving wineries offer wine travelers more of the true taste of Missouri.  Stone Hill, Oakglenn, Adam Puchta, and Hermannhof wineries are all situated in beautiful settings with scenic views.
 

Let's start at Oakglenn Vineyards and Winery.  Oakglenn is conveniently located just off Highway 100, about 2 miles east of Hermann, making it an easy stop either before or after exploring the town.  Relax for a while and enjoy their offerings, like the fruity Chardonel, sweet smooth blush, and the medium bodied spicy Chambourcin, another fine example of the style along this wine trail.  You'll also be taken in by yet another spectacular view, enhanced by enjoyable live entertainment most Saturday evenings.

After leaving Oakglenn, we paid a visit to Missouri's oldest winery, Stone Hill Winery.  As you drive up, you'll notice the handsome red brick structure, listed on the American Register of Historic Places.  If you're interested in a winery tour, Stone Hill's is highly recommended.  You'll be shown through the old arched cellars, production facilities, spacious tasting room, and gift shop.
 

We enjoyed sampling several of Stone Hill's selections and particularly enjoyed their Steinberg White, a German style semi dry white we found similar to a piesporter.  If you're looking for a place for dinner, make a reservation at the adjacent Vintage Restaurant, part of the Stone Hill operation.  Here you'll partake in traditional German cuisine, and of course, Stone Hill wines.

The third of Hermann's four wineries is one of the area's newest, Adam Puchta and Son Wine Company.  Though reopened in 1990, the Puchta family has a winemaking lineage going back to the area's earliest settlers.  Wanting a slightly sweeter wine, we opted for their Berry Black, full of rich fruit flavor, just sweet enough.  We also purchased several of their wines to enjoy later.  Adam Puchta's Hunter Red was a perfect match with barbeque pork sandwiches, while the Adam's Choice German style white wine complemented a cheese appetizer platter.

Finally, we discovered the Hermannhof Winery, located in Hermann. We enjoyed seeing their Inn and Gasthaus, offering comfortable and convenient overnight stays.  Hermannhof's facilities are also listed on the National Register of Historic Places and are frequently used for weddings and other special events.  We loved their dark ruby red Norton, another specialty of this area. 

With our winery touring completed, we settled in to historic Hermann, which reminded us of a town direct from a picture book.  Historic architecture abounds, along with German/Swiss specialty shops and restaurants.  Hermann is the perfect place for an overnight stay, which will give you some time to mingle with the locals and immerse yourself into the German and Swiss roots.

Hermann is a town to discover by strolling its historic streets.  There are dozens of bed and breakfasts, local specialty shops, antique stores, and local markets.  Hermann has worked very hard to preserve its heritage, and it shows.  You'll enjoy spending time in this town, and we encourage you to wander and explore.  After walking for a couple of hours, going in and out of various merchants, we stopped in at the Tin Mill Brewing Company, a new brewery and brewpub operation.  Featuring German style lagers, Tin Mill serves a hefeweizen that is one of the best we've tried.  For dinner in town there is Simon's Waterfront Restaurant, offering locally made sausages and other German fare.

This was a trip we'd like to make again and again, to not only allow us more in depth time at each winery, but to relax and enjoy the charming town of Hermann.  The scenery is fantastic, the people are friendly, and the wines superb.  We're going back to Missouri Wine Country! 

St. Louis Recommendations -

O'Connell's Pub:  no website,

The Hill District:  Shop The Hill .  Our favorites on The Hill include:

- Amighetti's Bakery - , a traditional Italian bakery

- Rigazzi's - for very good, inexpensive Italian cuisine and fishbowls of beer

- Favazzas - - One of our favorite Italian restaurants in a relaxed, comfortable setting.

- Volpi Deli - - Homemade traditional style Italian meats and deli.

Soulard Historic District:  Soulard District - .  The oldest and one of the most fun neighborhoods in St. Louis.  All sorts of great places to shop, eat, and imbibe.  Here's a few of our long time favorites:

- 1860 Saloon and Hard Shell Cafe - .  Restaurant/bar in the heart of Soulard with a cajun/creole influence.

- Hammerstones - Great patio, live music every night, reasonably priced and very good food. 

- Nortons Cafe - .  Warm and cozy dining area and a lively bar.

- Phelans Pub - .  One block south of the Soulard Market and a great place to stop for a drink.

- Soulard's Restaurant and Bar -  Fine dining and voted one of the area's best wine lists by the St. Louis Post Dispatch.

The Loop District and Delmar Blvd. - A short drive from downtown in the western part of the city. Highly recommended for an afternoon stroll and then a visit to one or the area's many restaurants for dinner. 

- Riddle's Penultimate - .  Excellent food and a large and wide ranging wine list.

Missouri Wine Country and the Hermann Wine Trail:
Hermann, MO Info and Hermann Wine Trail Info .
 

- Stone Hill Winery
- Oak Glenn Vineyards and Winery
- Robller Winery
- Bommarito Estate Winery    
- Bias Winery
- Adam Puchta Winery
- Hermannhof Winery

In and around the town of Hermann, we recommend:

-Tin Mill Brewing - Try the hefeweizen!

-Simon's On The Waterfront - For a true local experience and homemade German cuisine

-Trappers Grill - Wide ranging menu including steaks, German specialties, and an extensive Missouri wine list.