Finger Lakes, Part Two: The Keuka Lake Wine Trail Wine Trails USA
During the short drive to Penn Yan, we remarked to one another how absolutely beautiful it is here. Really, it's everything you'd want from a vacation. There are four seasons of activity, a thriving arts and cultural scene, enchanting historic towns, and the ample blessings of Mother Nature. Just a few interesting facts about Keuka Lake ... if you view it on a map, it has two distinct branches (fingers?). The lake looks just like a thumb and forefinger, and is nestled between Canandaigua Lake and Seneca Lake, which is one of the largest Finger Lakes. Keuka Lake is also known for another fascinating geographical rarity - it's the only lake in the world that flows both north and south!
Asfor the wine and wineries in and around Keuka Lake, there are nine official wineries listed on the trail, each with a wide variety of wine styles. No matter your tastes, you'll find world class wine to suit your palate. Incidentally, if you're planning to visit every winery in the Finger Lakes region, be prepared to stay a while (not a bad idea!). There are well over 100 wineries in the area. The Wineries of Keuka Lake - Day One With a mid morning start and our eyes on a late lunch picnic, we set off to explore the Keuka Lake Wine Trail, starting out south from Penn Yan. First stop was Keuka Spring Vineyards, with their new hillside tasting room perched above Keuka Lake. When you're greeted with an inspiring view, it's a perfect time to taste inspired wines. And we were in the right place, as Keuka Spring Vineyards has won several wine awards from numerous competitions, including recent recognition by Wine Spectator for their Crooked Lake Red. Keuka Spring Vineyards offers a fine range of wines, with the aforementioned Crooked Lake Red at the top of our personal list. Perhaps it was because we'd been so focused on white wines during this trip, but this was a wonderful change of pace. Very smooth and not too dry, this complex varietal is a winner and a great buy. We also recommend the companion Crooked Lake White, and Keuka Springs Celebrate, a blend of Riesling and Vidal Blanc. We wish we'd spent more time here. The thought crossed our mind to enjoy a bottle on the outdoor picnic area overlooking Keuka Lake, but alas, more wineries beckoned. Next up was Rooster Hill Vineyards. Once you see the big old handsome red barn, you've arrived at Rooster Hill. The New York Wine and Food Classic loves Rooster Hill, recognizing their wines with six recent awards. We understood why after spending 1/2 hour or so in the tasting room. This is a great place to shift into down time. The pace is relaxed, the scenery pacifying. We can see why so many people love this area. You don't want to leave, and you yearn to come back. On to the wines. Our favorite was the Dry Riesling, crisp and with a fruity zestiness (we sensed lemon and orange). Don't miss the award winning Silver Pencil, a slightly sweet white wine. It's absolutely bursting with fruit, almost tropical in feel, quite appropriate for a warm summer day.
An Afternoon Enjoying Keuka Lake With hunger pangs beginning to arise, Barrington Cellars and Buzzard Crest Vineyards was our next stop. About 8 miles south of Penn Yan, this gorgeous family farm winery is just about the most perfect place ever to have a picnic, and we did! The winery sits a few hundred feet off Keuka Lake and offers a perfect view of the shoreline and beyond. We sampled several offerings here and bought a bottle of Buzzard's Peach for our picnic. Mildly sweet, Buzzard's Peach and its sibling Buzzard's Pear are made from fruit grown right here on the farm. After a relaxing visit to Barrington Cellars, it was time to enjoy some area sights and ultimately head back to Penn Yan for dinner. Wanting to learn more about Keuka Lake and the area in general, we took the opportunity to visit a local landmark, the Esperanza Mansion and take in a Keuka Lake cruise. Although we didn't stay here, we'd recommend you look into it if you're visiting Keuka Lake. You have two options, either one of nine luxurious rooms within the Esperanza Mansion itself, or the convenient and accessible Inn at Esperanza right next door. We'd opt for the Inn, a casual setting but first class nonetheless. Each room has either a patio or balcony with a view of the lake. The mansion itself has a 170 year history and is a National Registered Historic Landmark. Anyone visiting the area should see the magnificent grounds and the mansion, built in the classic Greek Revival style architecture. Situated on 1000 acres, this full service destination resort was once a stop on the Underground Railroad. From here, you can cruise Keuka Lake on the Esperanza Rose, a 65 foot vintage wood cruising schooner, and enjoy a 90 minute sightseeing voyage. Penn Yan It's a short 10 minute drive back to Penn Yan, where we carved out time to explore the Main Street shops and settle in for dinner. Tradition and history are embraced in Penn Yan, named as a compromise between early settlers from Pennsylvania (Penn) and New England "Yankees" (Yan). Stroll around the town, mix with the locals, and enjoy small town hospitality! Based on a recommendation from Christina Chely, Marketing and Public Relations Director of Finger Lakes Wine Country, we stopped in for dinner at Lloyds Limited A Pub, located in the heart of Penn Yan. Christina has been one of our subscribers for a while now, and we sensed she knows exactly what we like, as the recommendation was spot on! Lloyds Limited A Pub (yes, that's the full name) is housed in a building dating back to the 1870's that has been at various times a hotel, barber shop, car dealership, and speakeasy. The pub fare here is fresh, filling, and inexpensive. Try the onion rings, BBQ pork sandwich, Beef on Weck, and the red potato salad. The decor here is warm and welcoming, with a pressed tin ceiling and all kinds of funky artifacts hanging from the walls. We'd recommend this place to anyone, so stop in for a relaxing lunch or dinner in a friendly local atmosphere. There's daily specials too. Another excellent choice for dinner in Penn Yan is the Keuka Restaurant, on Main Street . Maybe it's not the most imaginative name for a restaurant, but it's a great place to eat for lunch or dinner. Notably, the extensive wine list boasts many Finger Lakes wines, and in fact, we didn't notice any wines not from the Finger Lakes. The food here is well prepared, very pleasing, and as fresh as can be.
More Keuka Lake Wineries Late the next morning, we set off for more winery visits, interspersed with a bit of shopping and sightseeing. Just another day in the Finger Lakes! Driving south from Penn Yan, we began our day's wine journey with our first destination, the McGregor Vineyard Winery. This winery, founded in 1980, is yet another with a stunning view of Keuka Lake. Don't be in a rush to leave here, because the wines are nothing short of magnificent, particularly the Black Russian Red, Pinot Noir, and Gewurztraminer. We should also mention McGregor offers an appealing picnic area and a large gift shop, where you can take home a bottle or two of Black Russian Red as we did. Just down the road from McGregor Vineyard Winery is Ravines Wine Cellars. This relatively new winery is owned by Morten Hallgren, who learned his craft at his family's vineyard in southern France. The wines here are of particular interest as they're made from 100% Finger Lakes grapes, grown on the 17 acre site. We were told the grapes grow extremely well here due to a few geographical advantages. First, the vineyard is adjacent to the widest point of Keuka Lake, so the temperatures are somewhat moderated. Also, the vineyard is located between two steep ravines which in essence drain out cold air in the winter. The two ravines are how Ravines Wine Cellars got its name. The wines here are very food friendly, starting with the grapefruity Gewurtztraminer and continuing with the Keuka Village White, a slightly sweet blend developed from 80% Cayuga White grapes and 20% Vignoles. Our favorite of all was an impressive Cabernet France, with a bold spicy taste full of black cherry. On To Hammondsport The weather was perfect, and anxious for a stroll, we entered downtown Hammondsport, on the south end of Keuka Lake. Upon entering, you'll reach the village square, a perfect place to park the car and stretch the legs. This beautiful small town is well known for its numerous local events. Every season is celebrated, and events range from art shows to antique boat regattas to pumpkin festivals. Be sure to stop by the Visitors Center on the square for more information. While in Hammondsport, you can pick up some unique pottery pieces at Mud Lust Pottery, or browse the gourmet goodies at The Cinammon Stick. If you're looking for lunch, stop in the Village Tavern, located directly on the square. The Village Tavern offers over 130 beers, a great wine list, and live music during the evening. This is Hammondsport's true local gem. In an old clapboard house, the Village Tavern has been awarded the Wine Spectator "Award of Excellence" for several years running. If you try anything here, be sure to try the outstanding home made salad dressings. If you're imbibing, there are dozens of Finger Lakes area wines by the glass and 15 beers on draught. We opted for a lighter lunch, and the salads are absolutely fantastic here. Or, split a pot of steamed mussels ... outstanding!
The Western Shore of Keuka Lake As you leave Hammondsport on Route 76, you'll be on the west side of Keuka Lake and will soon see Heron Hill Winery. Heron Hill is truly a destination winery, from the large tasting room to the charming Blue Heron Cafe located on the grounds. We came back here one evening to hear some live music. Heron Hill is particularly known for their chardonnays and rieslings. We sampled both, and enjoyed the citrus characteristics of the Ingle Valley Riesling. Our favorite though was the 2006 Chardonnay, with essence of tropical fruit and very refreshing. What a unique version of the style! Heron Hill has another tasting room on Seneca Lake, and also offers the very popular Blue Heron Cafe on site, where you can enjoy lunch overlooking the lake. Just a few miles north is the well known and highly respected Dr. Frank's Wine Cellars. This winery, open since 1962, owns a list of prestigious wine awards longer than some of the Finger Lakes! Named New York Winery of the Year in both 2001 and 2006, Dr. Frank's Wine Cellars is well known not only in New York but all across the country. We'll add our accolades to Dr. Frank's Semi Dry Riesling, an exceptionally well balanced wine and not too dry or sweet. This magnificent wine was recently awarded a Gold Medal at the Los Angeles International Wine Competition. To round out the late afternoon, we visited Stever Hill Vineyards, a bit further north from Dr. Frank's. This newer winery actually has a long family tradition dating back to the mid 1800's, and Stever Hill proudly carries on the wine making heritage. The tasting room itself is in a restored Civil War era barn. We were enamored by the sweeter wines here. One in particular to try is Kelly's Concord Port. We'd never tasted a Port made from Concord grapes. There's a little brandy added, and the result is a very satisfying drink. Drinks And Dinner At The Switz After stopping back in Penn Yan to refresh, we headed back south on Rt. 54 to another local landmark for dinner and drinks, The Switzerland Inn. The motto here is "Eat, Drink, and Get Switzed". Sounds good! Located on the east side of Keuka Lake in between Penn Yan and Hammondsport (near where the lake splits into branches), The Switzerland Inn has been around since 1894. It's kind of a social gathering spot here at The Switz, with live entertainment, upper and lower decks, an outside bar, and various special events. A big thumbs up to The Switz for featuring only Keuka Lake wines ... we thought it was a nice touch! We enjoyed a bottle of Ravines Keuka Lake White with an order of calamari. Dinner consisted of a fantastic beer battered fish fry and a perfectly grilled filet mignon, while enjoying the sunset over Keuka Lake. This is a fun, vibrant place! Don't miss it when you visit the area. The following morning before leaving the Finger Lakes, we were able to visit Hunt Country Vineyards, just a few miles south of Penn Yan in Branchport. Another longstanding family farm winery, this expansive winery and vineyard offers classic wines that have garnered dozens of wine publication awards, both locally and nationally. Operated by members of the Hunt family for six generations, this winery offers quite a number of fun and unique wines, including sparkling wines and even vegan wines. We took two home with us, the Chardonnay Champagne, which is very clean, and Semi Dry Riesling, full of fruit, especially apricot. We also met some of the Hunt family pets while visiting. Check out their special Pet Page to see these very special companions. Finger Lakes Thoughts The Keuka Wine Trail is exceptionally easy to travel, and well marked. Several events are scheduled during the year, including a summer Barbeque at the Wineries and a Keuka In Bloom in May. There's also a Keuka Holidays event in November, so don't be bashful about visiting during the winter. In fact, it's likely to be just a bit quieter along the trail during the colder months, so it's an excellent time to plan your trip.
We left the Finger Lakes area and headed back to Rochester after a thoroughly enjoyable six day visit. We're already plotting a return! We met several people who visited here and ended up settling in the area. The allure of the Finger Lakes region is endless, and now we know why so many love it so much. If you're considering a wine travel vacation, the Finger Lakes gets our very highest recommendation. Finally, we'd like to offer special thanks to our subscriber, Christina Chely, Marketing and Public Relations Manager of Finger Lakes Wine Country for helping us plan this trip. Thank you Christina! Until next time, Recommendations ~
Keuka Wine Trail: www.keukawinetrail.com Keuka Lake Information: www.keukalake.com Hammondsport Information: www.hammondsport.org Finger Lakes Wine Country: www.fingerlakeswinecountry.com . Be sure to visit this very informative website for a complete overview of the Finger Lakes wine scene. You can also visit their office in downtown Corning, just a few miles south of Keuka Lake via Rt. 86. Lloyds Limited A Pub: www.lloydslimited.biz . In the heart of Penn Yan, visit this casual, relaxing restaurant/pub for lunch, dinner, and a splash of local color. Village Tavern: www.villagetaverninn.com . In Hammondsport on the south side of Keuka Lake, on the village square. Don't miss this local gem, either for lunch or dinner. The Cinnamon Stick: www.cinnamonstick.com . Gourmet gifts on the Hammondsport Village Square The Switzerland Inn: www.theswitz.com . Since 1894, a Keuka Lake tradition. Upper and lower decks, outside bar, right on the lake. About 9 miles north of Hammondsport. Keuuka Restaurant: www.keuka-restaurant.com . On Main Street in Penn Yan, featuring fresh and delicious home made cuisine and an extensive Finger Lakes wine selection. From the same owners as the Switzerland Inn.
Esparanza Rose: www.esparanzamansion.com . Boat tours on Keuka Lake on a 65 foot vintage cruiser. Windmill Farm and Craft Market: www.thewindmill.com . South of Penn Yan on Route 14A. Antiques, jewelry, produce, pottery, specialty food items, and much more. The Olney Place: www.theolneyplace.com . Here's where to get your picnic supplies, from unique cheeses and meats to gourmet sandwiches and more. A deli that everyone in the Keuka Lake area recommends. Mud Lust Pottery: www.mudlustpottery.com . Local pottery studio in downtown Hammondsport featuring interesting and functional creations. The Wineries ~ As mentioned, there are nine wineries officially on the Keuka Lake Wine Trail. From Penn Yan south to Hammondsport, then circling the lake back toward Penn Yan, they are: Keuka Spring Vineyards: www.keukaspringwinery.com Rooster Hill Vineyards:www.roosterhill.com
Barrington Cellars and Buzzard Crest Vineyards: www.barringtoncellars.com
McGregor Vineyard Winery: www.mcgregorwinery.com
Ravines Wine Cellars: www.ravineswinecellars.com
Heron Hill Winery: www.heronhill.com
Dr. Frank's Wine Cellars: www.drfrankwines.com
Stever Hill Vineyards: www.steverhillvineyards.net
Hunt Country Vineyards: www.huntwines.com
There are six other wineries in the immediate area that for some reason aren't officially on the trail, at least per the brochure and website for the trail. One is on the east side of the lake just south of McGregor Vineyard Winery (Crooked Lake Winery). The other five are on the west side of Keuka Lake. We just didn't have time to visit them, as we try to limit our winery visits to 3 per day, 4 at most. North to south, on the west side of the lake, they are: Yates Cellars Winery: www.yatescellars.com Keuka Lake Vineyards: www.klvineyards.com
Bully Hill Vineyards and Restaurant: www.bullyhill.com
Pleasant Valley Wine Company: www.pleasantvalleywine.com
Chateau Renaissance Wine Cellars: www.winesparkle.com
Crooked Lake Winery: Phone: (607) 243-5582
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