Pennsylvania Wine: Erie And The Chautauqua Lake Erie Wine Trail
Wine Trails USA
By: Jim Hofman
As part of our recent eastern state swing, we
discovered abundant clusters of wineries and wine trails
all along the southern and eastern boundary of Lake Erie,
from Ohio to New York. Along the way, a small area
of Pennsylvania awaits, offering the wine traveler a
chance to visit some of the Keystone State's most
prominent wineries. This area is part of the
Chautauqua Lake Erie Wine Trail, one of 11 wine trails
encompassing Pennsylvania wineries.
Like most states in this general geographic area, Pennsylvania
has a long history of grape growing and wine making. At
present, the state ranks fourth nationally in grape growing and
eighth for overall wine production. As you might expect,
there are plenty of Pennsylvania wineries to explore, with the
state's varied topography offering many distinct types of
grapes and wines.
Erie: Pennsylvania's Great Lake
Port City
Fresh off a highly enjoyable stay in Buffalo and Niagara
Falls, we hopped on I-90 for the short 90 mile drive over
the border to Erie, Pennsylvania's
only Great Lake port city.
We'd last been to Erie in the late 1980's, and the change is
dramatic and readily evident. The harborfront, at one
time home to railyards and heavy industry, is now a welcoming
destination, blending nicely with the diverse and
eclectic downtown area.
Erie has become a destination for several
reasons. This small city, population just over
100,000, is located at the intersection of two major
interstates. Almost directly between Buffalo and
Cleveland, Erie offers the amenities of a big city with
the ease of navigation of a smaller town.
And of course, there's the harbor and the tempering effects of
Lake Erie, a Great Lake that has sprung back to life in recent
decades. The very scenic Presque Isle State Park juts out
from downtown Erie into the lake, protecting the harbor and
serving as a naturalist's paradise. With many items on
our sightseeing agenda, we settled into the aptly named
Erie Lighthouse Inn for a three night
stay.
Arriving at lunch time, the waterfront beckoned. We opted
for lunch at the Sloppy Duck Saloon,
on Bayfront Parkway with the perfect view of Erie Bay and
Presque Isle. Two plates of steamed mussels, the sauteed
calamari, and a lake perch sandwich put us in the right frame
of mind to explore nearby Presque Isle State
Park.
Presque Isle State Park, a French
term meaning "almost" an island, extends almost 7 miles into
Lake Erie. We hopped on a 90 minute boat cruise, allowing
us to encompass the park and enjoy Lake Erie and Erie Bay from
the water. If you're a swimmer or sunbather, you've got
13 beaches to choose from and a recommendation from Conde Nast
Traveler magazine for good measure. Hiking, canoeing,
picnicking, and bird watching are other readily available
options. Designated a National Natural Landmark, Presque
Isle welcomes more than 4 million visitors a year. Top it
off with a visit to the top of the waterfront
Bicentennial Tower, affording 360
degree views of Lake Erie, Presque Isle, and downtown Erie. Do
make a point to visit here!
Approaching late afternoon, it was time to get reacquainted
with the city of Erie. First stop = Erie
Brewing Company, a local microbrewer offering
tastings Fridays and Saturdays 3-6 p.m. You can find
their beers in several states surrounding Pennsylvania.
We recommend their flagship brew, Railbender Ale, along with
the summery Sunshine Wit and the hoppy and citrusy Misery Bay
Pale Ale.
Downtown
Erie
What a pleasant surprise to rediscover downtown Erie! Not
only has the harborfront area been revitalized, but the
adjacent downtown district now offers all kinds of shops,
restaurants, and performance venues. Downtown Erie is
reasonably compact and very walkable, and parking is a
breeze. Roughly 14 blocks in length and 4 blocks wide,
downtown Erie hosts frequent block parties and is the center of
area entertainment options.
Erie's State Street is the main
downtown thoroughfare, bisecting the downtown from the bayfront
south. Most of the shops, taverns, restaurants, and
coffee houses are on or near State Street. Stroll the
area as we did, and pop in wherever strikes your
fancy.
Our first night's dinner was at the highly enjoyable
Plymouth Tavern, a downtown mainstay
for 35 years. Conveniently located at 11th and State,
this friendly local place serves up some of the best chicken
wings we've tasted. Their impressive beer list will have
you pondering what to try next, but don't overlook the food
menu. There are food and drink specials every night, and
plenty to choose from. When in doubt, order any of the
deli sandwiches or our favorite, the Chicken Philly, stuffed
with grilled chicken, sauteed onions, and melted
provolone.
After a few more stops throughout the evening, it was time to
get refreshed for our next day's agenda, filled with Erie area
attractions and winery visits.
The next morning after breakfast, we opted for a few hours at
the Erie Zoo and Botanical
Gardens. This combination of zoo and
gardens is a great idea, and something more cities should
consider. Wander around this 15 acre park and view over
400 animals and thousands of plants. If you're lucky,
your visit will coincide with one of the zoo's many educational
programs designed to let visitors get up close and personal
with the animals. Check their website for more
details.
Wineries of the Chautauqua Wine
Trail: Day One
From the zoo, it's a short 15 mile drive east to the beautiful
Victorian themed town of North East,
home to 5 wineries on the Pennsylvania portion of the
trail.
As you enter North East, you'll notice and even
catch the fragrance of thousands upon thousands of grape
vines. Agriculture and grape growing are a source
of community pride here. In fact, Welch's Grape
Company has a production plant in North East, and various
festivals celebrate the grape and other crops. The
rolling terrain and proximity to Lake Erie make this an
ideal grape growing climate.
In our sights for the afternoon were two of
Pennsylvania's oldest wineries, Penn Shore Vineyards and
Presque Isle Wine Cellars.
Penn Shore
Vineyards, open since 1970, is one of
the first wineries established in Pennsylvania. It's a
big, inviting place that offers tours to a few hundred
people daily. The tour takes you through the wine
cellars, bottling operation, and finally the tasting
room.
Penn Shore offers all sorts of approachable
wines, and a few surprises as well. There's a full
line of reds, whites, and sparkling wines. We
enjoyed the Bianca, a semi dry white, and the richly
flavored Burgundy. We also bought a bottle of Penn
Shore Champagne, and wish we'd bought more. Dry but
not too dry, and perfectly carbonated, we thought it was
far better than many imported champagnes.
Presque Isle
Wine Cellars is another Pennsylvania
veteran, having opened their doors in 1968. Wine
making is just part of the business here, as Presque Isle
also is well known as a wine supply and grape juice
operation.
When you visit, try the Falling Waters Sparkling
Wine for a real taste of this area's grapes. It's a
sparkling white, with a pleasant fruity finish. Not
to be outdone is the Freeport Red, which practically
explodes with rich berry flavor and aroma. Finally,
we recommend the Reflections of Lake Erie White, a blend
of Riesling, Vidal, and Cayuga.
Approaching mid-late afternoon, it was back to Erie for a sweet
treat and a visit to another Erie original, Romolo
Chocolates. This local chocolate
manufacturer and retail facility is renowned for their
outstanding chocolates. Spend some time here and buy a
box or two ... chocolate and wine are great
companions!
An Evening In
Erie
For dinner, it was back downtown for a stop at the
BrewErie at Union Station, located on
14th Street one block west of State. Housed in an
historic train station, the BrewErie is a perfect place to
enjoy local beer and approachable fresh cuisine. Entrees
are served with a side salad and spent grain muffins from the
brewing operation. Try the Union Station Platter, a
combination of corned beef, beer brats, and ale marinated
steak. Yum and then some!
With daylight still with us and a great meal to
work off, a stroll was in order. State Street fits
the bill! You can meander up and down the blocks,
poking your head into any number of shops, bars, or
coffee houses. Sherlocks Park
Place at 5th and State offers live music,
or opt for live theatre at the Erie
Playhouse on 10th Street. For
shopping, there's Accents By The
Bay on 5th Street, and Erie's family owned
treasure, Kraus Department
Store on Parade Street, in business since
1886.
Wineries: Day
Two
Morning brought another gorgeous day, ideal for wine
touring. Three were in store for the day, but first we
spent a few hours at the Tom Ridge Environmental
Center at the gateway to Presque
Isle.
This "green" environmental center, free to the public, is
designed to educate visitors about Presque Isle and other
important environmental issues. The TREC is an
interactive experience, with an orientation film introducing
visitors to the natural wonder that is Presque
Isle.
Plan for a few hours at the TREC. There's a great nature
shop and gallery, cafe, educational exhibits, and much
more. We truly came to appreciate the efforts of various
environmental agencies housed here, and learning more about
beautiful Presque Isle.
After a quick bite at TREC's Sunset Cafe, it was off to North
East to visit the remaining three wineries on the Pennsylvania
portion of the Chautauqua Lake Erie Wine Trail.
First stop was Heritage Wine
Cellars, with a history as long as the
rows of grape vines proliferating this area. This
family farm and winery is run by 6th generation Bostwick
family members, whose ancestors purchased their 100 acre
fruit farm in 1805.
Open as a winery since 1976, the vineyard is
largely Concord grapes, most of which are used for
juice. Some are used in wine as well, so do plan a
stop here to taste some of the freshest clean wines on
this wine trail.
We felt the reds starred here. In particular, we liked
Solebury Red, a unique semi dry red with a light berry fruity
finish. Just as enjoyable was the Blush, an easy drinker
perfect for picnics or happy hour. If you're in Erie and
can't get to the winery, you can buy Heritage wines at the
Millcreek Mall, the largest shopping mall in the
area.
Next up was Arrowhead Wine
Cellars. Owners Nick and Kathy
Mobilia harvest most of the wine making grapes themselves,
directly from their 250 acre North East farm. This is
truly a destination, with a large gift shop with all sorts
of interesting items, and a fruit stand next door. A
rich Chardonnay, crisp Pinot Grigio, and a fresh and sweet
Concord were among several we tasted. Be sure to stop
at the fruit stand - it's ideal for a mid afternoon
snack.
Last but certainly not least in this journey was
Mazza
Vineyards. Since 1973, the Mazza family
has proudly produced some of the best Germanic style wines
anywhere. Upon arrival, you'll be greeted inside the
beautiful Mediterranean style main building, where you can
opt for a tour or proceed to the tasting area or gift
shop.
This evolving winery produces not only a full
range of reds, whites, and fruit wines, but specialty
sherrys and ports as well. We opted for the Riesling,
upon a recommendation from a BrewErie waitress. And
it's fantastic, with fruity overtones and pleasantly
crisp finish. The Port, aged in bourbon barrels,
has delicious fruit flavors (we sensed plum and dark
cherry). We also took home a few bottles of Country
White, a pleasant and mildly sweet white
blend.
Final
Touches
After leaving Mazza Vineyards, we followed
another tip to visit The Kelly
Hotel for happy hour and to rest our
feet. Once a hotel in years past, The Kelly Hotel
is an old roadhouse structure with a warm welcoming
restaurant inside. It's actually just over the
border in New York, with a charming old bar and lots of
friendly people. We wished we'd arrived at dinner
time, as the menu looked marvelous, but alas it was just
a happy hour snack of chicken wings and a cold beer on
draft. This is an "in the know" place to stop, with
hardwood floors throughout and a great old tavern
feel.
Finally, we headed back to Erie, anxious to create one more
memory on the bayfront. There's no better place to do so
than Smugglers Wharf. Simply
put, this is a great restaurant with a great view.
There's a lively, casual crowd and the food is as good as the
bayfront and Lake Erie view. We opted for lake perch and
steamed mussels, both perfectly prepared and served with a
smile.
And we suppose that's a perfect way to close
this travelogue. Everywhere we went in Erie, we
were greeted with a smile. Take the time to visit
this friendly city and enjoy all the area has to
offer. Whether you're there for wine travel or not,
we're certain you'll enjoy your stay.
Until next time,
Cheers!
RECOMMENDATIONS:
Chautauqua Lake Erie Wine
Trail: www.chautauquawinetrail.org
About North East and Erie Wine
Country: www.nechamber.org
The Kelly Hotel: www.thekellyhotel.com An old roadhouse/restaurant with an
interesting history dating back to 1928. 52 flavors of
wings. Actually just over the border in
NY.
Erie PA
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General Erie Information: www.visiterie.com
ERIE
RECOMMENDATIONS
Erie Zoo and Botanical Gardens
www.eriezoo.org Opened in 1930, this 15 acre site offers
winding walkways, beautifully landscaped grounds, and
more than 400 animals to visit.
Presque Isle State Park:
www.visitpaparks.com Erie's biggest natural attraction, this 7 mile
peninsula juts out into Lake Erie and shelters Erie's
lakefront harbor. You'll find ample beaches,
walking and biking paths, bird watching, and other
outdoor pursuits.
Bicentennial Tower: www.porterie.org Directly on the water in Erie's Bayfront
District. Venture up to the top for a great view of
Presque Isle, Erie Bay, Lake Erie, and
downtown.
Erie Brewing Company: www.eriebrewingco.com See how beer is made, and sample! Tours
and tastings Fridays and Saturdays.
Downtown Erie: www.downtownerie.com Shop, dine, and enjoy this compact and
friendly downtown area. Most shops and restaurants
are clustered on and around State Street, the main
thoroughfare through downtown and leading to the
waterfront.
Sloppy Duck Saloon:
www.sloppyducksaloon.com A close up view of Erie Bay, plus lake
perch sandwiches and all your favorite
drinks.
Erie and Presque Isle Boat Tours:
www.piboattours.com A variety of relaxing sightseeing cruises on
Lake Erie, Erie Bay, and around Presque Isle.
The BrewErie at Union
Station: www.thebrewerie.com Here's a very good restaurant in Erie's
historic Union Station where you can try all kinds of
great local beers.
Plymouth Tavern: www.plymouthtavern.com Located in a sturdy 1800's building, the
Plymouth Tavern has been a downtown Erie mainstay since
1973. Mouth watering food, lots of daily specials,
and a fun bar atmosphere.
Smith's Hot Dogs: www.smithshotdogs.com An Erie institution, this local meat purveyor
has produced hot dogs, hams, sausages, and more since
1927. If you have a hot dog in Erie, chances are
it'll be from Smith's. Take it from a Chicagoan who
knows hot dogs, these are top notch! They ship
nationwide.
Relish Studio and Gallery: www.relishinc.com Take home a treasure from the lake from
Erie's original beach glass jewelry shop.
Romolo Chocolates: www.romolochocolates.com Erie's local chocolatier, located near
downtown. All sorts of decadent chocolate
specialties to satisfy your sweet tooth.
Smugglers Wharf:
www.smugglerswharfinc.com Great restaurant, great view, on a Great
Lake. One of Erie's favorite gathering
places.
Erie Lighthouse Inn: www.erielighthouseinn.com Clean, comfortable, convenient motel with
reasonable rates.
Tom Ridge Environmental Center
(TREC): www.trecpi.org Don't miss this interactive
educational facility to learn more about Presque Isle and
other environmental issues.
The
Wineries:
Penn Shore Vineyards:
www.pennshore.com
Presque Isle Wine
Cellars: www.piwine.com
Arrowhead Wine
Cellars: www.arrowheadwine.com
Heritage Wine
Cellars: www.heritagewine.biz
Mazza
Vineyards: www.mazzawines.com
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