Wine Trails and Wine Travel
 

 

Lake Geneva - The Newport of the Midwest, Wine Included  

 

Wine Trails USA

By:  Jim Hofman, Owner & Publisher

One evening a few weeks ago, we sat down to discuss our upcoming travel plans, our sights firmly fixed on a fun wine travel destination. 

 

As Wine Trails USA readers have come to know, we like to explore wine regions that are a bit under the radar.  That's our goal ... introducing you to great destinations, giving you an insider's tour, and tipping you off to largely undiscovered wine producing areas across the U.S. 

 

Sometimes, in our quest for new travel experiences, we take for granted some comfortable, familiar destinations right at our fingertips.  So, for this issue of Wine Trails USA, allow us to introduce you to a beautiful southern Wisconsin area that's been part of our lives as long as we can remember ... Lake Geneva and Walworth County

 

Introducing Lake Geneva 

 

Lake Geneva holds a special connection for many Midwesterners.  Located 10 miles north of the Illinois-Wisconsin border, Lake Geneva and Walworth County have long been a resort community destination.  In the late 1800's, prominent Chicagoans began to summer here, building palatial homes along Geneva Lake's 21 mile shoreline.  Most of these mansions are still here today, accessible by private boat and public sightseeing cruises. 

 

Often dubbed "The Newport of the Midwest", Lake Geneva is a popular destination for weekend travelers, offering a vibrant shopping scene and numerous all-in-one resorts.  The star of the show, though, is Geneva Lake and the surrounding rural vistas.  The lake itself is 7 miles long, 2 miles wide, and a sportsmen's paradise.  One of the deepest lakes in Wisconsin, Geneva Lake is teeming with fish, evidenced by numerous Friday night fish frys in Walworth County restaurants.

 

 

Also of note, a lot of pop culture began in Lake Geneva.  The creators of the famous soap opera "The Young and The Restless" lived here, and the long running fantasy game "Dungeons and Dragons" was developed in Lake Geneva.  In the late 60's, entertainment mogul Hugh Hefner opened a Playboy Club here, which is now the Grand Geneva Resort.  

 

Just 90 minutes from Chicago and less than an hour from Milwaukee, Lake Geneva is the best of both worlds.  There's a cosmopolitan sophistication here, nicely balanced by a homespun community feel.  Farms dot the landscape, offering a bounty of fresh produce and dairy.  And as you'll discover, vineyards also thrive here, as valleys surround literally dozens of smaller lakes, creating a blossoming opportunity for southern Wisconsin winemakers. 

 

And so, join us as we spend a relaxing weekend in beautiful Lake Geneva and surrounding Walworth County, Wisconsin. 

 

The Sights and Sounds of Lake Geneva 

 

Meandering into Lake Geneva along Route 50, everything becomes familiar and feels like home.  My grandfather built a cottage here in the late 1920's, and a retirement home in the 1950's in rural Lake Como, just up the road.  I remember the early morning rides into downtown Lake Geneva for sweet rolls at Bittner's Bakery, now long gone.  Memories of spending summer weeks and weekends come flooding back.  This has been a special destination all my life, through high school, college, and well beyond.  The car practically navigates itself as we spot familiar hangouts and survey new places to explore.         

 

Downtown Lake Geneva isn't big or wide spread, so park the car and stroll around.  Most of downtown is on the National Register of Historic Places, and you'll immediately notice beautifully restored buildings, now housing various retail stores and restaurants.  Wandering downtown Lake Geneva's streets, you’ll find all sorts of interesting diversions, from galleries to coffee shops to sportswear retailers.  If you're in an artsy mood, you'll barely walk a block without encountering home decor boutiques, antiques, and pottery shops.  Carve out a couple of hours and enjoy the lake lifestyle! 

 

Just a block from the heart of downtown is the eastern end of Geneva Lake, anchored by the beach and the beautiful Depression era Riviera Building, home to lower level shops and banquet facilities above.  Adjacent are the main docks for Lake Geneva Cruise Line and their historic fleet, offering daily sightseeing cruises in season. 

 

Don't miss the opportunity to hop on board the Lady of the Lake for one of the many available cruises.  Choose from fall color tours, general sightseeing, or lake and mansion tours.  There's even a U.S. Mailboat tour, where you'll marvel at the skill of a specially trained mail carrier.  These agile daredevils literally leap from the boat, dash up the piers to deliver the mail, and hop back aboard, all while the vessel continues to motor along.  It's an amazing sight to see! 

 

 

Lake Geneva:  The Full Spectrum 

 

Even though Lake Geneva is often compared to other luxury resort areas like the Hamptons or Newport doesn't mean everything is pricey.  Yes, you'll find high end places to stay and eat, but this is resort country mixed with country character.  Come here and enjoy a few hours on a family farm, or pamper yourself at a lakeside spa.  Outdoor enthusiasts will enjoy boating, water skiing, and fishing.  If you're like us, you'll thoroughly enjoy exploring Lake Geneva on foot, whether it's shopping and dining destinations or the new walking path stretching the entire 21 mile shoreline.  And if you have more time, there are literally a dozen more interesting small towns dotting the Walworth County landscape, just waiting for you to explore. 

 

Without question though, the resorts here are destinations on their own ... they are that special and spectacular.  Just to mention a few in the Lake Geneva area, you'll find Geneva Ridge, Grand Geneva Resort and Spa, Lake Lawn Resort, Alpine Valley Resort, and The Abbey Resort.  Some are brand new or remodeled, like Lake Lawn and The Abbey.  Others combine outdoor activities with full service creature comforts, such as the Grand Geneva Resort and Spa.  All are four season resorts, especially Alpine Valley, where you can ski in winter and take in a summer concert at their outdoor amphitheatre.   Rock and Roll Hall of Famers know full well the appeal of Alpine Valley ... over the years such rock legends as The Rolling Stones, Crosby, Stills, and Nash, and Eric Clapton have performed here. 

 

Lake Geneva Area Wineries 

 

So now that we've given you the lay of the land, join us for some winery hopping! 

 

There are three very enjoyable wineries within 15 minutes of Lake Geneva.  Incidentally, the lake (and town) were named after Geneva, New York by early settlers, due to a striking resemblance to the Finger Lakes town of Geneva.  And just as Finger Lakes is wine country, the Lake Geneva area holds its own as a wine travel destination.  You can easily visit all three in one afternoon.  

 

Our first winery visit is about 15 minutes east of Lake Geneva, near the town of Burlington, famous for its annual Chocolate Festival.  Roll down the windows as you approach Burlington ... if you're lucky you'll smell the sweet aroma of chocolate in the air.  The Nestle Company has a big production plant here. 

 

About 5 miles east of town you'll find Apple True Winery, located on a sprawling farm and orchard.  Apple True is actually known for their draft ciders, both apple and pear in a variety of styles.  Even if you don't imbibe, there's ample reason to visit, with over 100 varieties of heirloom apples awaiting your tasting experience. 

 

While the ciders are the star of the show at Apple True, don't pass up a chance to sample their wines, the pear wines in particular.  On our trip to Maine earlier this year, we enjoyed a pear wine and looked forward to trying another.  Apple True's mellow, semi sweet Pear Wine is made from two varieties of pears grown on site.  If you've never tried a wine like this before, this is the place to start! 

 

There are also several types of apple wine available, each made from a different apple variety, all grown right here.  We liked Autumn Glory the best, probably since it's made with our favorite apple, the Jonathan.  The result is a rich, full bodied wine with just the right amount of crispness that you'd expect. 

 

Apple Barn Orchard and Staller Estate 

 

Heading back west 15 minutes from Apple True, you'll enter the small town of Elkhorn, 6 miles north of Lake Geneva on Highway 12.  We often come here to visit the local bakery on the quaint town square.  Just outside of town is the Apple Barn Orchard and Winery, located on a family farm and orchard founded in 1848. 

 

In addition to picking your own apples, you can tour the farm and of course sample Apple Barn's wines.  We've always liked the fruit wines here.  Wine competition judges agree, as Apple Barn wines have racked up an impressive collection of awards and medals.  There's always an apple wine available, so be sure to try Honey Crisp Harvest, but don't overlook other offerings like Summer Peach and Hardy Pear.  Take a few bottles to go and savor them over a Lake Geneva sunset. 

 

Less than 10 minutes away on County A is Staller Estate Vineyard and Winery, the area's newest and a very welcome addition to Wisconsin's wine scene.      

 

Using grapes primarily from their Walworth County vineyard, Staller Estate is already producing an impressive array of wines.
 


This was our first visit, so we tried everything available.  We were very impressed with their newest offering, Whitewater Rush, a semi dry white named after the nearby college town of Whitewater.  With a fragrant grape aroma, this wine starts boldly on the palate and finishes fruity.  This wine came home with us, as did a few bottles of Estate Blanc, reminiscent of some wines we tasted in the Finger Lakes.  With a touch of sweetness, Estate Blanc is fruit forward, and you'll love the taste of ripe peach and apple. 

 

There's also Maiden Blush, in the white zinfandel style but with a bit more fruit aroma and taste, and Horizon Cuvee, a semi dry white with a wonderful grapefruit tang.  We can't wait to come back to Staller Estate to see how they're progressing and taste the interesting wines they're sure to come up with down the line. 

 

Or, Spend An Afternoon Shopping! 

 

Traditionally, we like to spend two nights here so we can visit our old favorite shops and restaurants.  To add to the mix, there's always something new to see, as Lake Geneva continues to appeal to generation after generation.  After spending one afternoon visiting wineries, we were able to spend another strolling, shopping, and sipping.  Join us and we'll show you around! 

 

One of our traditional first stops is The Cheese Box.  Located on Wells Street along Motel Mile, The Cheese Box is much more than just cheese.  Since 1940 this quaint store offers gourmet deli meats, stuffed sandwiches to go, and the best selection of Wisconsin wine we've seen.  Of course, you'll also find dozens of unique varieties of cheese, more than any store in the area.  If you're planning a picnic along the lake, this is the place to pick up your fixings. 

 

Downtown Lake Geneva boasts all sorts of shopping opportunities.  We enjoy Pop More Corks, an approachable wine store, andDelaney Street Mercantile, a haven for unique home decor.  For women's fashion, there's Lola's, Nancy's Petites, and E Street Denim.  For your pet, stop in at Paws For Treats and pick up a gourmet treat or stylish accessory.  For birding enthusiasts, there's Wild Birds Unlimited, a naturalists store with a fascinating selection of bird feeders. 

 

Just outside of town, be sure to stop in at Pesche's Greenhouse, a large garden complex for all your landscape and gardening needs.  There's also Northwind Perennial Farm, a turn of the century farmstead offering ornamental gardens and unique art. 

 

Surrounding towns like Williams Bay, Fontana, Delavan, and Walworth are well worth exploring for their shopping and dining options.  Each with a personality of their own, these relaxed lake community towns are all within 10-15 minutes of downtown Lake Geneva. 

 

Dining and Night Life 

 

As always, we'll list several great dining and nightlife choices in our Recommendations section.  On this quick visit to Lake Geneva, we enjoyed a picnic lunch along the Geneva Lake shoreline and a casual dinner at Chuck's Lakeshore Inn in nearby Williams Bay.  No matter your preference, there are ample dining options in the area, from burger and pizza joints to candlelight and white linen.  Check out our personal favorites below, or make your own discovery.  Lake Geneva has a long and proud tradition of excellent independent eateries, so forego the chains and settle in at one of the many enjoyable local choices. 

 

Closing Thoughts 

 

Whether you stay for a week or just a weekend, Lake Geneva's charms will capture your heart and imagination.  You'll see why this area has long been a preferred destination for generations of visitors.  Plan your visit for any time of year, as there are ample activities to delight even the most seasoned traveler.  And, with three impressive wineries to visit, wine lovers will discover and embrace this beautiful corner of southern Wisconsin. 

 

We are so happy to share this special destination with you.  Lake Geneva has been a home away from home for us for decades.  Experience it for yourself and we're sure you'll create some of the same wonderful memories we have over the years.  The visitors bureau slogan pretty much says it all:  "Lake Geneva - It's Always Been The Place!" 

 

Until next time, 

 

Cheers!           

  
 

 

Recommendations - 

 

Lake Geneva Visitor Information: www.lakegenevawi.com  

 

Walworth County Visitor Information: www.visitwalworthcounty.com 


Food and Drink 
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Going out for a farm fresh breakfast is a longstanding tradition in these parts.  Two of our favorites are near the main intersection of downtown Lake Geneva, Rt. 50 and Broad Street.  Literally next door to one another, both Harry's Cafe and Lake-Aire Restaurant are fine choices for satisfying, easy on the wallet breakfasts.  Both of these local institutions have been around for decades. 

 

Fischer's on Buttons Bay: www.fischerslakegeneva.com .  This newer restaurant is about 1/2 mile south of downtown, directly across the street from a quiet bay of Geneva Lake.  There's an outdoor deck for warmer weather and the sunset views are fabulous.  It's a great place for drinks and appetizers. 

 

Gordy's Boat House: www.gordysboats.com .  On the west end of Geneva Lake in the small town of Fontana, next to The Abbey Resort.  Lively atmosphere, good food, reasonable prices. 

 

Chuck's: www.chuckslakeshoreinn.com .  Right next to Gordy's, this local spot has been serving up great hamburgers and cold beer for over 50 years.   

 

Popeye's: www.popeyesonlakegeneva.com .  Since 1972 in the heart of downtown Lake Geneva, you'll get good food at a reasonable value at this tried and true mainstay.  The lake view is a plus. 

 

Mars Resort and Restaurant:  A sentimental favorite of ours on the southern shore of Lake Como, about 3 miles from downtown Lake Geneva.  Just go west on Rt. 50 from downtown and look for the Mars sign.  A very special place that's been in business since the 1920's.  Fish frys, steaks, comfort food, good drinks, piano music, and an outdoor deck round out the experience. 

 

The Cheese Box: www.cheesebox.com .  Serving the Lake Geneva area since 1940.  Gourmet cheese, meats, and a nice selection of Wisconsin wine. 

 

Upper Crust Pizzeria:  Just 3 miles south of downtown on County H.  A local gem, Upper Crust is all about great pizza, Italian specialties, cold beer, and a warm friendly atmosphere.      

 

For Lake Geneva nightlife, just stand at the corner of Rt. 50 and Broad street and look around!  There are all sorts of fun local places for a drink and a casual meal.  A few of our favorites are Champs Bar and Grill, Fat Cats, and Carvetti's, all within a block of the Rt. 50 and Broad intersection. 

 

Lake Geneva Sightseeing - 

 

Lake Geneva Boat Rides: www.cruiselakegeneva.com .  Learn all about the grand mansions dotting the lake shore while enjoying the sun and fresh air on beautiful Geneva Lake. 

 

Lake Geneva Wine Festival: www.lakegenevawinefestival.com .  Held every September, this nationally renowned wine festival combines the art of cuisine with the splendor of wine.  

 

Northwind Perennial Farm: www.northwindperennialfarm.com .  Just five miles north of Lake Geneva, this farm is a local landmark and a destination for gardeners and nature lovers. You'll discover all sorts of garden accents, native plants, and ideas to implement at home. 

 

Pesche's Greenhouse: www.peschesgreenhouse.com .  For everything gardening, visit Pesche's, either online or just outside of Lake Geneva on Highway 50. 

 

Paws For Treats: www.pawsfortreatslakegeneva.com .  Dogs are welcome at this fun store in downtown Lake Geneva, offering all sorts of gourmet natural treats for your best pal.

 

Lake Geneva Area Wineries - 

 

Apple Barn Orchard and Winery: www.applebarnorchardandwinery.com 

 

Staller Estate Vineyard and Winery: www.stallerestate.com 

Apple True Winery: www.appletrue.com