We support bills that allow wines from small wineries to be shipped directly to in state and out of state residents. Consumers should have access to wines they discover on their travels. It is an economically sound decision.

If anyone in New Jersey reads this, please follow the link and voice your opinion.

Here is the message:

Currently, Garden State wine lovers cannot have their favorite wines shipped to them from New Jersey vineyards. The same restrictions prevent you from having wine shipped to you from vineyards and wineries outside of New Jersey.

There is legislation being proposed—Assembly Bill A-1702—that will give you the power and the choice to have wines shipped directly to you from wineries throughout our state.

Approval of this legislation is a win-win situation.

Millions of wine consumers in 35 other states are able to have wine shipped from their wineries to their homes every day. Now New Jersey residents will be able to do the same.

It will help New Jersey’s economy – When you provide New Jersey wineries with the ability to sell their products and ship them in New Jersey and across the nation, they will sell more products, grow more grapes, pay more taxes and grow their businesses too.

New Jersey’s many award winning wineries will finally be placed on equal footing with wineries in 35 other states. And, wine consumers from other states will have the ability to have New Jersey wines shipped to their homes.

But to do this, we need your help now more than ever. New Jersey wine consumers are having an impact on the debate. To ensure that you have that same choice freedom of choice as consumers in 35 other states, paste the following link into your browser:

http://capwiz.com/cpanj/issues/alert/?alertid=12317661&PROCESS=Take+Action

and call on your legislators to give you the right to choose.

We need to keep up the momentum. Please continue to take action and encourage 10 of your friends, family members, colleagues and neighbors to ask Assembly Speaker Sheila Oliver to post the direct shipping bill now!!

(end of message)

With the recent explosion of new wine trails in the United States, you can find a great weekend wine travel destination just about anywhere you turn. Especially appealing are those that combine great wine, scenic beauty, and picturesque towns with a wide array of attractions.

The 3 Rivers Wine Trail in Minnesota is one of three new wine trails in the state. You might not consider Minnesota as a grape growing and wine making state, but the climate is extremely conducive to the art. Lush river valleys moderate the harsher weather, while advanced grape growing techniques yield interesting new varieties for vintners.

The net result is a wine culture in Minnesota that is blossoming by the day. Equally important for the state’s economy is the forward thinking approach by winery owners and local and state tourism boards. The three wine trails in the state were developed in a few short years and promotional efforts are taking hold. There is a real recognition in the state of the value of cross promotion to lure visitors and tourists not only to the wineries, but all the attractions in some of the most beautiful small towns in the upper midwest.

Introducing the 3 Rivers Wine Trail

The 3 Rivers Wine Trail is an ideal add on destination for those visiting the Twin Cities, western Wisconsin, or as a destination on its own. The trail itself consists of five wineries, and the total distance north to south is about 80 miles.

We recommend two full days to explore everything. You will want to spend time in two historic towns, Stillwater and Red Wing, both renowned destinations for those seeking a relaxing experience. The name of the wine trail stems from the St. Croix, Cannon, and Mississippi Rivers, all of which congregate here in south east Minnesota. The result is spectacular scenery and an ideal area for growing grapes!

Let’s start our tour at the northernmost winery on the trail, WineHaven Winery and Vineyard in Chicago City, about an hour north and slightly east of the Twin Cities.

WineHaven Winery

Located in the St. Croix River Valley, WineHaven is the pride and joy of the Peterson family, who have been growing fruit in this area for generations. Now, that passion for growing fruit has manifested itself into one of Minnesota’s best known and award winning wineries.

You can visit here from Thursdays through Sundays. We recommend two wines in particular, both whites and both fresh and fruity. WineHaven’s Riesling has won numerous awards over the years, most notably in Finger Lakes wine competitions, a notable accomplishment considering how well the Finger Lakes area is known for rieslings. This particular vintage is crisp and fruity, with a slightly peach fragrance and taste.

The other white is made from a grape indiginous to this region, the LaCrescent. It’s the name of the wine as well, and it offers even more fruit than the riesling but not too sweet. If you visit this area, seek this variety out!

A good red style to try in this area, and this winery in particular, is the medium bodied St. Croix. It is medium dry, with a smooth berry taste that is perfect on its own or with pork or beef dishes.

On To Stillwater

From WineHaven, it’s a short 25 minute drive down Highway 95 to historic Stillwater, where you will find two wineries in the vicinity, as well as great shopping and places to eat.

Stillwater is very close to St. Paul, almost close enough to be considered a suburban area. Stillwater though is independent and unique, with an historic flavor that befits a river town.

The first winery to visit is Northern Vineyards Winery, located on Main Street in the heart of historic Stillwater. You can visit here year around, so it’s an ideal day trip from the Twin Cities. Northern Vineyards uses grapes exclusively from this area, so you’ll get a real taste of this wine region here.

Be sure to step out on their back deck to enjoy a glass of Prairie Star and enjoy a close up view of the unique Stillwater lift bridge. Praire Start is in the Chenin Blanc style, dry but without the oak characteristic. A great change of pace is the St. Pepin, made with native grapes that result in a slightly sweet and apple finish wine.

After you visit, we recommend exploring all that Stillwater has to offer. It is an excellent walking town, with a relaxed pace and historic architecture. Poke your head into one of Stillwater’s many independent shops or attractive galleries. It’s an ideal stop for lunch before visiting the rest of the trail.

The next winery is located just west of Stillwater, and it’s St. Croix Vineyards. It is one of the largest wineries in the state and you can visit here from mid April through December. Every Saturday at 1 p.m. there’s a free public tour, so arrange your visit to partake if you can.

Our favorite wine here is the Frontenac Gris, sort of like a Pinot Gris but slightly sweeter and fruitier. We were attracted to this wine because it is made from a grape specifically developed here at the University of Minnesota viticultural department. The result is nothing short of spectacular; it is an exceptional wine that is full bodied and yet light, with flavors of peaches and pears on the palate.

Two other excellent choices are the Riesling and the Rose, which is made with Frontenac grapes, which gives it a vibrant cherry flavor.

Depending on where you live, you can order any of these wines by mail, so check their website for details.

Visiting Red Wing, Minnesota

We first visited Red Wing almost 20 years ago, when frequent business trips to Minneapolis allowed us to discover this beautiful small town. Red Wing is a weekend destination trip for surrounding states, with scenic beauty and river views that you will remember forever. This is the home of Red Wing Shoes, so be sure to stop in at their store in the heart of downtown.

You’re about an hour southeast of the Twin Cities here, so it is a perfect overnight stop. There are ample lodging options available, but always book ahead, especially in the summer months. An evening and subsequent morning are just about the perfect amount of time to explore Red Wing and the two wineries in the area.

The fourth winery on the 3 Rivers Wine Trail is Falconer Vineyards in Red Wing. Visit here on Satudays year around, or Friday through Sunday from spring until late fall. Bring your own snacks to enjoy a picnic at one of the picnic tables set amidst the vineyards and enjoy a bottle of Marechal Foch, a spicy and mildly sweet red made from area grapes.

St. Croix Vineyards has a full line of reds and whites, so no matter your tastes or preferences, you’ll be delighted with a real taste of Minnesota wine country.

About 20 miles east of Red Wing along Highway 52 is another Minnesota small historic town where you’ll want to spend a few hours, Cannon Falls. One of the prime attractions here is Cannon River Winery, which boasts a handsome facility of limestone walled tasting room and 19th century barn.

All of the grapes used in wine making here are harvested locally and used for wines that are unique to the upper midwest. We are very pleased to help publicize these wines that are not well known outside of the region and the local wine communities.

Try the Sogn Blanc, named after the river valley where the grapes originate. This wine is a slightly sweet wine with tropical fruit accents, perfect when served chilled. The grape is Edelweiss and the taste is delicious!

The Classic White is another excellent choice, and for reds, we recommend Nouveau, a local treasure that is bursting with dark fruit taste and made in the style of a beaujolais. All in all, there are about 20 wines to try here, depending on availability. And while it’s impossible to try all twenty in one sitting, it certainly is incentive for a return visit!

Summary

The 3 Rivers Wine Trail is the perfect introduction to the Minnesota wine scene, and very convenient to the Minneapolis-St. Paul area. The five wineries on the trail are about an hour and a half apart, with the two historic river cities of Stillwater and Red Wing as stopping points.

We look forward to the development of more wineries and wine trails in Minnesota. The southeastern part of the state is particularly suited for grape growing, and wine makers are taking full advantage.

Be sure to visit one or all of these wineries on any visit to the Twin Cities or western Wisconsin area. You’ll enjoy a relaxed pace, some beautiful river valley scenery, and most of all, great wine!

Cheers!

RECOMMENDATIONS

3 Rivers Wine Trail: www.3riverswinetrail.com

At their website, you’ll find links to all five wineries on the trail.

Stillwater, MN Information: www.ilovestillwater.com

Red Wing, MN Information: www.redwing.org

Wine Trails USA

If you’ve ever felt that wine travel is best suited for summer time, perhaps by the end of this travelogue you’ll have a slightly different perspective.

It’s January as we write this, and winter has its usual vice grip on the Midwest. But all around the country, wineries are welcoming visitors and hosting wine trail events. Actually, the traditional off season is the perfect time to visit your favorite winery. Crowds are lighter and chances are you’ll rub elbows with the owner or winemaker who can personally provide insight into their craft. It’s an ideal way to learn more about wine in a relaxed, leisurely setting.

Recently, we caught wind of a new wine trail being developed and marketed in the Deep South. And so, in an effort to escape the winter doldrums, we set out for the milder climate of Alabama to discover the burgeoning Alabama Wine Trail.

The Alabama Wine Trail: Background and Challenges

Although Alabama isn’t typically known as a wine producing state, there is a long history of grape production and wine making here. Like other southern states, the muscadine grape reigns supreme, but Alabama winemakers are developing a surprising array of excellent wines. Much of north central Alabama offers a mountainous terrain, with numerous opportunities for outdoor recreation. Of course, where there are mountains, there are sure to be valleys. This, combined with a long growing season, gives the Alabama wine industry an excellent opportunity to thrive as time goes on.

Wine Trails USA was delighted to see Alabama designate an official wine trail. If you’re interested, be sure to request an Alabama Wine Trail brochure from the Alabama Travel Council (contact information below). It’s a beautiful brochure outlining Alabama’s eight wineries, all within an easy drive from the state’s three main cities of Birmingham, Montgomery, and Mobile.

There was, however, a large amount of publicity devoted to the Alabama Wine Trail at its launch, unfortunately not all positive. Long standing anti alcohol biases are quite prevalent in the state, and wineries have overcome numerous hurdles to open for business, let alone market their products. Fortunately, through a lot of hard work and persistence, the Alabama Wine Trail is open for business and capitalizing on the wine travel and agri tourism trend. We’re rooting hard for the success of Alabama wineries and their wine trail, and we hope our visit and this travelogue helps open a few eyes.

With that said, this was a most enjoyable trip for us, milder temperatures aside. Alabama is a beautiful state! It’s easy to navigate, the cities are charming and historic, and southern hospitality abounds. As of this writing, there are eight Alabama wineries – we visited seven and we’re very pleased to introduce them to you. So without further ado, join us as we learn more about Alabama and the Alabama Wine Trail.

Birmingham: Cuisine And Culture

Located near the geographical center of Alabama, Birmingham is a rollicking and diverse city that’s a mix of genteel southern charm and sophistication. This is a city for gourmands, whether your tastes trend toward slow cooked barbeque or bistro fare. Adding to the ambiance are several appealing and walkable shopping districts with independent stores galore.

Just over one million people call metropolitan Birmingham home. There’s a wonderful diversity here, sprinkled with a youthful vibe and a love of life. Italian, Greek, Asian, and Lebanese cultures provide a melting pot of culinary tradition. And you can’t wander far in Birmingham without hearing the sounds of jazz, blues, country, rock, or gospel. Immerse yourself for a few days to really feel Birmingham’s pulse.

Arriving mid morning on our Southwest Airlines direct flight, we set our sights on exploring the city. The next day, we’d venture off and devote a day to discovering four Alabama wineries, but today is all about the hidden gems of Birmingham. Join us!

Birmingham’s Sights, Sounds, and Shopping

Maybe wine and baseball aren’t the greatest mix, but whether you love the game or just appreciate history, be sure to visit Rickwood Field, America’s oldest ballpark. Built in 1910, this cozy nostalgic treasure of baseball’s past has hosted some of the game’s greatest, including Willie Mays and Babe Ruth. Every year, a turn back the clock game is played here by the Birmingham Barons, a Chicago White Sox farm team, complete with retro uniforms and 1920′s ambiance.

From here, it’s a short drive to the venerable Peanut Depot for a bag or two of freshly roasted peanuts (now there’s something that goes with baseball!). Located on Morris Avenue near downtown, the Peanut Depot has filled the air with the wonderful aroma of roasting peanuts since 1907. Pick up a 1/2 pound bag for, well, peanuts! Delicious … the best $1 we’ve spent in a while.

Birmingham loves to eat, and the downtown area boasts a few local treasures. For quick and casual, there are plenty of options. As an aside, did you know Birmingham is famous for its hot dogs? Try Lyric Hot Dog and Burgers, open since 1957 and located next to the historic Alabama Theater. Or, there’s Pete’s Famous Hot Dogs, a small hot dog stand in continuous operation since 1915. Being from Chicago, we know a little bit about hot dogs, and Birmingham’s weiners take a back seat to no one!

If you’re looking for something slightly more upscale, Birmingham has got you covered. You’ll find more information about Birmingham restaurants at the end of this travelogue, but suffice it to say 2 1/2 days isn’t near enough to sample all of this city’s culinary delights.

For authentic southern style cooking downtown, try John’s City Diner, a Birmingham tradition since 1944. Don’t miss their gumbo, it’s among the best we’ve had, even in New Orleans. For a down home breakfast, there’s Lyric Hot Dogs & Burgers, open since 1957 and a real locals spot for fresh filling food. Or, there’s the chic but moderately priced Zoe’s Kitchen for upscale gourmet salads and more. And don’t forget the outskirts of town, as Birmingham offers a dizzying array of wonderful local restaurants that are sure to please.

And if you’re looking for interesting local shopping options, head just south of downtown to the neighboring Five Points South and Lakeview Entertainment Districts. These two friendly, walkable areas are home to all sorts of unique shops. Both areas come alive after dark, with Five Points South catering to a younger crowd and Lakeview attracting those with a bit more life experience (35+). You’ll find antique shops, boutiques, restaurants, and live music galore, and a universal appeal designed to please anyone in your traveling party.

Alabama Wineries – East of Birmingham

We chose Birmingham as our base of operations for two nights since four of Alabama’s wineries are situated within a 45 minute drive east of the city. Interstate 20 cuts east/west across Alabama and intersect with Interstate 59 just northwest of Birmingham. Either route will take you into a hilly, almost mountainous, terrain that’s home to Alabama wineries.

Our first winery to visit was Wills Creek Vineyards, just a short distance off Interstate 59 exit 188 in the small town of Attala. Arriving just after 10 a.m. on a crisp but sunny day, we had the winery tasting room all to ourselves. Wills Creek specializes in muscadine wines with interesting twists, as some are dry and others the more traditional sweet.

We enjoyed just about everything we tried, especially the terrific Sirano Limited Release. This bold red wine, similar to a Syrah, is moderately dry with flavors of dark fruit – we tasted plum and blackberry. Also, don’t miss Blazing Sun Pinot Grigio, a friendly white wine with pleasing citrus flavors. We bought a few bottles of this to take home, our very first Alabama wine purchase!

The winery itself is located in the midst of the Duck Valley Wildlife Preserve, and the grounds are pleasant and peaceful. Stop for a few moments and breathe in the fresh air … it’s almost as refreshing as the wine!

Just a few miles south of Wills Creek is White Oak Vineyards, in Anniston just north of Interstate 20. Open on Friday afternoons and Saturdays, White Oak boasts a beautiful tranquil farm setting amidst the rolling hills of central Alabama. Here you’ll enjoy an eclectic variety of twelve wines, ranging from sweet to crisp, all made with Alabama pride. Surprisingly, we found a Chambourcin and also a Burgundy, with the Burgundy made from Norton grapes. Reflecting on last year’s trip to Missouri, we noted the terrain is quite similar in this part of Alabama. The Burgundy in particular was outstanding, with bold intense flavors that to us stacked up against any other Burgundy we’ve tasted.

You should also try White Oak’s fruit wines, especially the Peach. This is such a fun, easy sipper and it’s a real taste of Alabama, as the state is known for its peach crop almost as much as neighboring Georgia. On the drier side, there’s Villard Blanc, an elegant white offering that also made its way home with us.

As we crept into the early afternoon, it was time to head west back toward Birmingham. Our plans called for extended exploring of Birmingham’s two shopping areas, a bit more sightseeing, followed by dinner.

Our first stop was the Lakeview District, home of an old Dr. Pepper plant that’s been transformed into a hub of Birmingham’s art and design community. The district itself is roughly 16 square blocks and is anchored by Pepper Place, a showplace of galleries, showrooms, and a popular Saturday farmer’s market. On the surrounding streets, you’ll find some well known Birmingham dining destinations, like Rogue’s, an authentic down home diner serving southern specialties like meat-and-three plates.

There’s also Golden Rule BBQ and Grill, one of dozens of barbeque restaurants in the Birmingham area. We enjoyed an insanely delicious sampler plate here, a bounty of pulled pork, ribs, pulled chicken, and sides. And not far from here is Dreamland BBQ, well known for their simple menu of ribs and white bread and universally loved by locals.

For happy hour or late night drinks with friends, you’ve got ample choices. We loved Barking Kudu, voted Best New Bar by Birmingham Weekly. The draught beer selection is astounding! There’s also an impressive array of live music most nights. And how can you go wrong at a place like Lou’s Pub, in the heart of Lakeview. This neighborhood pub bills itself as Birmingham’s Cheers … you’ll feel like a regular in no time. We promised ourselves we’d come back in warmer weather to soak in some time on the Lou’s Pub patio.

Alabama Wineries – Day Two

After a healthy sampling of Birmingham nightlife, our next day’s plans called for two winery visits south east of the city, in the valley between I-20 and I-65. Here you’ll find two of Alabama’s most well known wineries, Bryant Vineyards and Morgan Creek Vineyards.

About 35 minutes southeast of Birmingham in Harpersville, AL is Morgan Creek Vineyards, a state of the art winery producing a wide range of wines. Ranging from dry to very sweet, Morgan Creek’s wines are made with fruit and various grape varieties, including the muscadine grape. A stalwart of the south, the muscadine grape is generally quite sweet but are also a perfect blend with fruit and other grapes.

We sampled most of Morgan Creek’s wines and came away most impressed with three in particular. First in our hearts was Noble, a dry red offering with a unique finish of strawberry and dark cherry. We’d serve this one room temperature as a partner to a mild cheese or a strip steak. Next, we liked Cahaba White, just slightly sweet with a bit of a spicy palate mixing well with the fruit. Finally, Regal Red, in the burgundy style and brimming with dark cherry flavors.

In summer, Morgan Creek offers fireworks displays in conjunction with live music nights. You can bring a picnic, enjoy wine tasting, and listen to music under the stars, all capped off by a rousing fireworks show.

Our final winery in Part One of our Alabama Wine Trail travelogue takes us to Bryant Vineyards in Talladega. If that name sounds familiar, it’s due to the famous Talladega Speedway that draws thousands of visitors each year. Bryant Vineyards is just a few miles away from the track.

Bryant Vineyards has been producing wine since 1985, with grapes grown on land that has been in the Bryant family since the late 1800′s. You’ll find a full range of muscadine wines here, including our favorite, Country White. This is a perfect wine for warm summer nights, or cold January nights for that matter! We also liked Festive Red, a dark red table wine that we felt benefitted from a slight chill.

Bryant is a small operation with no website at press time, so be sure to call ahead to make sure someone is available to greet you.

Looking Ahead To The Rest Of The Trail

The next morning, we headed south on Interstate 65, with our ultimate destination being one of our favorite southern cities, beautiful Mobile, Alabama. But we’ll save that for Part Two of our Alabama travelogue, and we hope you’ll join us as we visit more of Alabama’s wine country.

In closing, we encourage you to get your wine travel “fix” in some of the southern states during the winter months. Travel is easy as temperatures stay above freezing for the most part. And, you won’t need to fight the crowds while you linger at unique small wineries and discover interesting cities and sights along the way.

Cheers!

RECOMMENDATIONS

Alabama Travel Information: www.alabamatravel.org

Alabama Wine Trail Information: www.northalabama.org

Birmingham Visitor Information: www.birminghamal.org

BIRMINGHAM ATTRACTIONS

Peanut Depot: www.birminghamal.org

Pepper Place: www.pepperplace.net

Rickwood Field: www.rickwood.com

Alabama Theatre: www.alabamatheatre.com

BIRMINGHAM EATS/DRINKS

Birmingham Local Restaurant Info: www.birminghamoriginals.org

THE WINERIES

Wills Creek Vineyards: www.willscreekvineyards.com

White Oak Vineyards: www.whiteoakal.com

Bryant Vineyards: No website, phone 256-268-2638

Morgan Creek Vineyards: www.morgancreekwinery.com

Wine Trails USA

Welcome to Part Two of our Alabama Wine Trail Journey!

As we discussed in Part One, much of Alabama’s wine country is located in the central part of the state, where the hilly terrain is conducive to vineyards and grape growing. South of Birmingham, it’s a downhill run to Montgomery, the state capital, and Mobile, a lively port city hugging the Gulf Coast.

For the entire trip, you’ll navigate Interstate 65, which cuts a north/south path through the heart of Alabama. Travel is a breeze and most attractions are easily accessible off the highway. Currently, there are three wineries in the southern half of Alabama, so when you combine winery visits with the friendly cities of Montgomery and Mobile, you’ve got the makings of an ideal 3-4 day getaway.

Planning The Route: Two I-65 Wineries

Our plans called for a mid morning departure from Birmingham with an overnight stay in Montgomery. Then, a half day’s drive to Mobile and the subtropical climate of Mobile Bay and the Gulf Coast. Two Alabama wineries sit along the I-65 corridor between Birmingham and Montgomery, which are 90 miles apart. And so, after a light breakfast in Birmingham we headed south on I-65 with our sights set on Vizzini Farms Winery. Located only 1/2 hour south of the city, Vizzini is open daily at 10 a.m. and is easy to find right off exit 234.

Vizzini offers an onsite deli and outdoor patio where you can enjoy lunch overlooking the vineyards. We arrived at 10:30, too early for lunch, although we did snack on freshly baked bread and local cheese from the deli counter.

You’ll have your choice of about a dozen Vizzini wines, made from a combination of west coast and Alabama grapes. If you’re familiar with our travelogues, you know we like to “drink local” and sample wines made with local grapes. At Vizzini Farms Winery, that means a terrific Cabernet Franc, whose smooth flavor compared favorably to Virginia or California wines of this style.

Sensing how much we liked the Cabernet Franc, our tasting guide suggested the Sangiovese, a red Italian table style wine that had us thinking of a pairing with barbeque. Among others we liked were a Pinot Noir, Blush, and a pleasantly surprising Riesling that was right in our sweet spot. We aren’t sure where the grapes originate for Vizzini Farms’ Riesling, but we recommend it as a “must try”. Crisp and a bit sweeter than many Rieslings, we wish we’d bought more than one bottle.

Less than 10 minutes away, only a mile off exit 228 near the town of Calera, is the beautiful and welcoming Ozan Vineyard and Cellars. If you’re pressed for time and can only visit one winery in Alabama, Ozan is a good choice. Situated on a 24 acre estate in the midst of Alabama wine country, this relatively new winery boasts a continually expanding vineyard with emphasis on the Norton grape.

Ozan’s Wine Train

One of Ozan Vineyard’s more interesting projects is their monthly wine train excursion, which combines wine tasting with a leisurely train ride through the countryside. Operating from April through November, each trip offers a different environmental focus, depending on the season. These Saturday journeys last three hours and include wine tasting, gourmet box lunch, and theme narration. See Ozan’s website for more details.

We settled in for a taste of Ozan’s Norton Red Label. Norton wines are fast becoming our red wine favorite, having been introduced to the style in Missouri and southern Illinois. We weren’t surprised to see it here, as the countryside reminded us of central Missouri. This wine is big and bold, with an appealing black cherry flavor and mildly oakey finish. Also try the Reserve Merlot, vinted from local grapes and aged for 16 months.

For something sweeter, there’s Ozan Peach. Peach wines are big in Alabama and this one is really good! Very pleasant and well made, it’s not overwhelmingly sweet and has the aroma and flavor of farm fresh peaches.

There are almost a dozen wines to try here, with special releases planned through 2009. Only minutes off I-65, it’s an ideal stop between Birmingham and Montgomery. Ozan is a big supporter of the Alabama Wine Trail and helps enhance promotion of the Alabama wine industry. They’re open Fridays and Saturdays, 11-6.

Down I-65 To Montgomery

Less than an hour from Ozan is Alabama’s historic state capital, Montgomery. We’ll introduce you to this fascinating little city in a few moments, but seeing as we arrived during the lunch hour, let’s head straight downtown to a Montgomery landmark, Daisy’s Diner.

Located in the heart of Montgomery’s downtown a few short blocks from the Alabama River, Daisy’s Diner is southern cooking personified. Nothing fancy here, but then again, the best southern cooking is always welcoming and unpretentious.

There’s a set menu at Daisy’s, and daily specials, usually focused around a “meat and three”. This means you’ll get one meat and three side dishes. From the moment we walked in, we were mesmerized by the scent of fried chicken, which was nothing short of outstanding. The outer breading was crisp and tasty, the chicken itself moist and tender. We also ordered a plate of meatloaf, with buttered corn, squash casserole, and turnip greens on the side. What a delicious introduction to Montgomery!

Refueled and recharged, it was time to explore and immerse ourselves into Montgomery’s culture and pulse.

Montgomery: Alabama’s Proud Capital City

With just over 200,000 residents, Montgomery isn’t particularly large. It’s easy to navigate, especially the walkable downtown area. The city is rich in history, with numerous civil rights landmark sites. The best place to start is historic Union Station, an 1890′s era building housing the Montgomery Visitors Center. We viewed a short video overview of the city and visited “The Depot”, Montgomery’s official gift shop. You can also buy $1 all day passes to the Montgomery Trolley System, which will transport you all around the downtown area.

From here, your choices are many. Visit and tour the Alabama Capitol, explore historical sites, or spend an afternoon amidst the speciality shops on Mulberry Street. This is a government town, so the downtown is bustling, especially during the day.

Much like Birmingham, Montgomery boasts dozens of local restaurants, ranging from traditional southern fare to upscale gourmet. There’s Sophia’s BBQ, actually a great place for breakfast or lunch, where two eggs with bacon and toast will only set you back $3.50. Or, wander over to Chris’ Hot Dogs, a Montgomery staple since 1917. Get a (very good) hot dog for $2, loaded with mustard, onion, sauerkraut, and Chris’ famous chili sauce. Insider tip: the hot dogs aren’t overly big, so they’re a perfect late afternoon/happy hour snack. Chris’ Hot Dogs is open until 7 p.m. during the week.

For dinner and live music, there’s the Montgomery Brewing Company, affectionately known as “The Brew Pub”. Housed in an historic former warehouse building built in 1913, it’s located downtown on Jefferson Street, about two blocks from Daisy’s Diner. We stopped in for dinner and particularly enjoyed two of the house brews, Riverboat Red and Wipeout Stout. You’ll love The Brew Pub’s grilled black angus rib eye with chipotle cream sauce and the parmesan crusted trout. Or, tickle your southern taste buds with made-from-scratch soups and a delicious Creole gumbo. This is a fun place with a gregarious crowd and rollicking live music later in the evening.

We enjoyed meeting some local Montgomerians, who were delighted we were spending some time in their city. They claim many tourists bypass Montgomery on their way to the Gulf Coast and never experience the city’s charms. We enjoyed our visit very much, and recommend a day or two stay for anyone traveling through Alabama.

On The Road To Perdido

Our next morning’s agenda pointed us south on I-65 for the 170 mile ride to one of our favorite seaside destinations, Mobile. About 30 miles outside of the city, you’ll find Alabama’s oldest and southernmost farm winery, Perdido Vinyards. This was our first stop of the late morning.

Since 1983, Perdido Vineyards has been a stalwart of the blossoming Alabama wine industry. Open six days a week from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Perdido welcomes visitors and offers winery and vineyard tours to individuals and groups. They specialize in muscadine table wines but also produce a surprising array of other wine styles.

Perdido is a great place to get acquainted with muscadine wines. This prolific grape is common in southern states and is a traditional sipping wine enjoyed by generations of southerners. If you like sweet wines, they’re right up your alley. We found Perdido’s to be very well made. Muscadine wines are a bit too sweet for our liking, but that’s not a knock on them at all. After all, the best wine is the one you enjoy the most! As our tastes trend toward semi dry wines, we’ll like some wines you won’t, and vice versa. Taste, compare, enjoy, and tell your friends. That’s what wine travel is all about, right?

For our palate, Perdido’s Demopolis Ecor Blanc was a fine discovery. This semi dry white has mild tropical fruit flavors and an extremely well balanced finish. This one came home with us, as did Delta Bouquet, an enjoyable blush wine with just a tinge of sweetness. And if you’re headed out to the Gulf Coast beaches, don’t pass up Perdido’s Wine Coolers, the newest addition to their product line.

Seafood, Mobile Style

From Perdido, it’s about 1/2 hour to historic downtown Mobile. Along with New Orleans, Mobile is a culinary capital of the Gulf Coast. Great seafood is abundant, and influenced by various cultural cooking styles and techniques.

There are scores of restaurants here, not only in Mobile but also the outlying beach communities. A great choice for any first time or repeat visitor is Wintzell’s Oyster House, a Mobile mainstay for 71 years. There are several Wintzell’s outposts, but stick with the traditional downtown location in the midst of the action on Dauphin Street. We visited here for lunch and happily used a 2-for-1 lunch coupon courtesy of the Mobile Visitor Bureau’s website.

Wintzell’s is seafood nirvana. We dove into the grilled catch of the day (amberjack), and a shrimp po boy, in addition to a half dozen plump, juicy oysters. For a real bargain, visit any Wintzell’s location during happy hour, weekdays from 4-7 p.m. Oysters are 1/2 price and draft beers are $1! It’s almost enough to make one want to look at local real estate …

We’ll get back to some other Mobile food finds, but first let’s get acquainted with the area and experience a few sightseeing destinations.

Mobile: Gateway To The Gulf Coast

When describing Mobile to friends, we often compare the city to its Gulf Coast neighbor, New Orleans. There’s a similar pace and a wonderful mix of cultures in both cities. But as much as we enjoy New Orleans, we enjoy Mobile even more. Maybe it’s the close proximity to such natural attractions as Dauphin Island. Maybe it’s the safeness and walkability of the downtown area. And maybe it’s because Mobile is a bit of the underdog, in the shadow of it’s more prominent neighbor. Whatever the reason, if you like all the good things about New Orleans, you’ll love Mobile.

Here’s another parallel … did you know Mobile is the birthplace of Mardi Gras in North America? Mobile first celebrated the Mardi Gras tradition over 300 years ago, in 1703. Every February, Mobile throws a huge two week party to celebrate the event, with parades and all sorts of revelry. In fact, Mobile is known as home to “America’s Family Mardi Gras”. There’s even a special store devoted to the event, Toomey’s Mardi Gras.

The city itself hugs the western shore of Mobile Bay, a large inlet that merges with the Gulf of Mexico 10 miles to the south. Ecotourism is big here, with all sorts of spectacular natural sights in this subtropical climate. Even in January, we enjoyed temperatures hovering right at 70 degrees with gentle breezes and flowers in bloom all around the city. Nature has truly blessed this area, making the Mobile area a one-of-a-kind waterfront destination.

Downtown Mobile

Mobile’s center of the universe, so to speak, is its historic downtown. You’ll experience unique, treasured architecture sprinkled with southern and Creole character. Also, you’ll encounter great restaurants, lively bars, and time honored specialty shops. Start your visit dowtown, and you’ll soon find yourself swept up in the “joie de vie” that’s such a big part of Mobile.

We’ve introduced you to Wintzell’s, but there’s much more on and around Dauphin Street to explore. Stroll the area and enjoy a taste of Mobile at Three Georges Southern Chocolates, where you’ll find delicious pralines and nougat filled cremes. Browse for hard-to-find books at Bienville Books, or stop for a snack at A+M Peanut Shop. Later on, enjoy a cold beer at Hurricane Brewing Company, or stay for dinner as we did. And if it’s live music you seek, pop in at any of a number of nightspots, clubs, or jazz bars.

Downtown Mobile is adjacent to one of America’s newest cruise terminals, and cruise lines depart daily for the Caribbean and other ports of call. Hotel rooms are plentiful here, and downtown is a good choice as a home base. You can walk to dining and nightlife destinations and enjoy easy access to interstates and expressways to explore other area sights.

Just outside the downtown, two great fish restaurants beckon with daily fresh catches and postcard views. Both Ed’s Seafood Shed and Felix’s Fish Camp are local favorites, with reasonable prices and comfortable, casual atmosphere. Either make an excellent choice for lunch or dinner.

Nature Calls … Mobile Answers

When you visit Mobile, no matter the season, you’ll have ample opportunity to explore the great outdoors. A favored destination is Dauphin Island, a 14 mile long barrier island sheltering Mobile Bay from the Gulf of Mexico. Reached by causeway, Dauphin Island is ideal for camping, sunning on the beaches, or exploring history and nature.

To orient yourself, visit Dauphin Island’s Audobon Bird Sanctuary. This 164 acre site consists of a maritime forest, dunelands, a freshwater lake, marshes, beaches, and some of the most acclaimed bird watching in the world. This is the first stop for migrating birds from south and central America. Dozens of species can be seen here, and there’s an interpretive trail circling through the grounds. We spotted alligators lurking in the freshwater lake and a handsome giant turtle sunning in the swamp.

If you’re a bicycle enthusiast, Dauphin Island is calling your name. There’s a bike path stretching the entire length of the island, and you can rent a bike at one of the local watersport shops. You can also visit the Dauphin Island Sea Lab, a combination estuarium and public aquarium with numerous exhibits and a living marsh boardwalk.

“Damn The Torpedoes, Full Speed Ahead”

If you’ve ever wondered where that phrase originated, it was here on Dauphin Island at historic Fort Gaines. This Civil War era fort gained prominence in the Battle of Mobile Bay in 1864. Union Admiral David Farragut, seeking to break through Confederate defenses at Fort Gaines, uttered the famous phrase as his fleet steamed into Mobile Bay. Fort Gaines was in use through World War II and now stands as a National Historic Site. You can visit any day of the week, and there’s a reduced admission coupon on the Mobile Visitors Bureau website.

While you’re on the island, be sure to stop for lunch at one of the local seafood spots. We like Pelican Pub for fresh fish sandwiches and a great view of the marina and Gulf. Another to try is Barnacle Bill’s a casual friendly place with daily specials and cold drinks.

Bellingrath Gardens

Another of Mobile’s famous attractions is Bellingrath Gardens, a horticultural treasure and one of America’s preeminent gardens. Located 20 minutes south of downtown Mobile, Bellingrath Gardens is an ever changing 65 acre display of floral beauty in a natural setting of Spanish moss and oak trees.

Plan for about 1/2 day here. You can tour the Bellingrath Home, a 19th Century mansion listed on the National Register of Historic Places. We also enjoyed a 45 minute waterfront cruise on the Southern Belle, observing wildlife along the way and learning about the Mobile Bay ecosystem. Butterfly, Rose, and Japanese gardens add to the ambiance, and a boardwalk through the grounds provides a close up view of deer, turtles, and the occasional alligator.

From Bellingrath, spend an afternoon shopping in the charming bayside village of Fairhope. An artists community of sorts, it’s located on the east side of Mobile Bay. There are several small villages here, each with their own personality. One particularly enjoyable stop in Fairhope is the Eastern Shore Art Center, where you can view and purchase beautiful prints depicting scenic Mobile, the Bay, and the Gulf Coast.

Summing It All Up

We chatted with one of the shopkeepers about our Alabama wine travels, and she responded “Alabama is beautiful before a glass of wine, and after!”. We couldn’t agree more. This is truly an underrated vacation spot. If you’re a foodie, you’ll love the southern cooking, the barbecue, and of course the fresh seafood. If you’re into history or the outdoors, Alabama has you covered with friendly cities, clean and clear mountain areas, and the compelling Gulf Coast.

And finally, if you’re a wine lover, hopefully we’ve given you a glimpse into the Alabama wine industry. May you enjoy your Alabama travels as much as we did!

Cheers!

RECOMMENDATIONS:

Montgomery Visitor Information: www.visitingmontgomery.com

Mobile Visitor Information: www.mobile.org

Dauphin Island Visitor Information: www.dauphinislandcoc.com

Food And Drink:

Hurricane Brewing Company: www.hurricanebrewing.net

A+M Peanut Shop: www.ampeanutshop.com

Ed’s Seafood Shed: www.edsshed.com

Felix’s Fish Camp: www.felixfishcamp.com

Three Georges Southern Chocolates: www.threegeorges.com

Montgomery Brewing Company: www.montgomerybrewpub.com

Wintzell’s Oyster House: www.wintzellsoysterhouse.com

Sights And Shopping:

Bellingrath Gardens: www.bellingrath.org

Dauphin Island Sea Lab: www.sealabestuarium.org

Downtown Fairhope: www.fairhopemerchants.com

Eastern Shore Art Center: www.easternshoreartcenter.com

Toomey’s Mardi Gras Store: www.toomeys-mardigras.com

Bienville Books: www.bienvillebooks.com

The Wineries:

Vizzini Farms Winery: www.vizzinifarmswinery.com

Ozan Vineyard and Cellars: www.ozanwine.com

Perdido Vineyards: www.perdidovineyards.com

Wine Trails USA

As we write our latest Wine Trails USA travelogue, it’s late February and here in the Midwest, it’s the doldrums of winter. Cold, snow, wind and assorted other weather hassles have us thinking of the warmth of one of our favorite areas in the U.S. , sunny southern Arizona .

We first discovered southern Arizona almost 20 years ago, when a corporate job transfer gave me responsibility for an office in Phoenix . Not long after, we took the first of many weekend trips to Tucson , just 1.5 hours south of Phoenix on Interstate 10.

Today, Tucson is a thriving metropolitan area of just under one million. Tucson is renowned for its restaurants, history, Spanish influence, and more. With ample sightseeing opportunities, it’s a perfect destination for a long weekend. If you’re anything like us, one visit won’t be nearly enough. Tucson draws us back again and again and it’s begining to feel like an adopted second home.

After a few visits, we began to explore day trip destinations from Tucson and discovered the subject of this issue of Wine Trails USA – Southern Arizona Wine Country.

Let’s start our exploring with an insider’s view of Tucson -

On our first visit many years ago, we were surprised to discover that metro Tucson is actually a few degrees cooler than Phoenix , a welcome reality if you choose to visit during summer months. Tucson ‘s elevation level is about 2400 feet and you’ll notice the city is nestled between several mountain ranges.

With all the amenities of any major metropolitan area, Tucson is perfect for exploring via car. Being fans of history, our preferred lodging destination is the wonderfully funky Hotel Congress, located in the heart of downtown Tucson . Hotel Congress is just steps away from Tucson ‘s 4th Avenue shopping district, a veritable mix and match of everything from thrift stores to tony boutiques. At the Congress, you find reasonable rates and comfortable amenities. Be sure to enjoy a meal (particularly breakfast) at the hotel’s Cup Cafe, one of many Tucson restaurants featured on the Food Network.

While the good folks at Tucson ‘s Convention and Visitors Bureau can fill you in on all the details, you’ll find Tucson blends a relaxed and casual outdoor style with world class culture and cuisine. It’s a metro area suited to dining, shopping, and sampling.

If you’re an animal lover or a naturalist, be sure to visit the famous Arizona Sonora Desert Museum . Unlike any other “museum” we’ve seen, this world class attraction is a combination garden and zoo. You’ll see hundreds of species of plants and animals in a natural desert setting.

For unique Tucson treasures, the downtown area boasts Old Town Artisans, an old adobe complex occupying an entire city block. Old Town Artisans offers unique independent shops where you can peruse art, jewelry, home furnishings, and fashion.

Nearby, enjoy the well known Fourth Avenue Shopping District, containing about 5 blocks of galleries, eclectic boutiques, and restaurants. Allow yourself a good half day to cover these two shopping and strolling destinations.

One aspect we enjoy and admire about Tucson is their many diverse independent restaurants. We have literally dozens of favorites so it’s tough to narrow it down! See our Tucson Recommendations section for an overview of some of our top choices, from casual pub grub to local Mexican cuisine to fine dining.

Off To Arizona Wine Country:

Our first visit to Arizona Wine Country was a short and enjoyable day trip. Going east/southeast from Tucson on I-10, it’s only an hour away. Exit I-10 about 20 miles east of the city at Exit 281 and proceed south on Arizona Rt. 83. Note the changing topography as you climb more than 2000 feet through your journey.

Traveling south on Rt. 83, you’ll soon enter the charming town of Sonoita , the gateway to wine country. If you arrive around lunch time, we recommend Cafe Sonoita, on scenic Route 82 just a half mile east of the Rt. 83 junction. You’ll choose from a blackboard menu, presented at your table, or the standard menu. We enjoyed a local specialty, the Hatch green chile chicken burrito, and a bowl of homemade soup. You can also enjoy a glass of Arizona wine from Cafe Sonoita’s ample wine list.

Looking at the terrain in the Sonoita area, you’ll begin to understand why wine has been produced here for many years. It’s a perfect blend of medium elevation, rich soil, and low humidity. Owners of the seven wineries in this area will tell you this area is just about perfect for growing grapes.

A Few Of Southern Arizona Wine Country’s Wineries:

Let’s spend a little time at a few of this area’s wineries. As is typical with a wine trail journey, these wineries are clustered together within a few miles. We recommend a late morning stop at one or two, a break for lunch, and then more wine exploring on into the afternoon.

We visited these wineries over the course of two visits, so feel free to mix and match your destinations. There’s no precribed order, as the wineries are scattered about in this pleasant, mostly rural area. No matter which you choose, you’re guaranteed a true taste of Arizona ‘s highly respected wine industry.

Callaghan Vineyards: Open 11 to 3 on Friday through Sunday, Callaghan Vineyards produces premium reds and whites from its own 25 acre vineyard. Styled in Mediterranean and Spanish varieties, owner Kent Callaghan’s wines have received accolades from prominent publications like Wine Spectator and the New York Times, and have been served at the White House on three occasions. Our favorite was Lisa’s White, with its spicy apple aroma and subtle rich taste of pear and grapfruit.

Canelo Hills Vineyard & Winery:Canelo Hills is the product of owners Tim and Joan Mueller, who founded the operation in 2003. The Muellers were delighted to open their new tasting room in September 2007, realizing a long term dream to own and operate their own winery. Located 7.5 miles east of the Rt. 83 and 82 crossroads in the small village of Elgin , Canelo Hills is open for tasting Fridays and Saturdays from 11-4. Tim and Joan are strong supporters of local sustainable products and host an annual Wine and Farm Festival. Current wine offerings include a chardonnay, syrah, cabernet sauvignon, and an especially delicious crisp riesling.

Dos Cabezas Wineworks: Dos Cabezas is a relatively new arrival to the Sonoita-Elgin wine country, but not a newcomer to the Arizona wine scene. They’ve been producing wines since 1995, and recently moved the winery to this area from a location in the southeastern part of the state. Dos Cabezas was very proud to win two Governers Choice Awards in December 2007 for Arizona ‘s best red and white wine. Their Viogner took honors for the whites category, while their El Norte took home the award for reds. Located on Rt. 82, their tasting room is open Fridays through Sundays from 10:30-4:30 . Make a point to try the deep, complex El Norte … we loved it!

Rancho Rossa Vineyards: Rancho Rossa is one of Arizona ‘s largest family owned wineries, producing over 1200 cases per year entirely from their own fruit. Located about 6 miles southeast of Sonoita, they’re open for tasting Friday-Sunday from 10:30 to 3:30 . We enjoyed their Case Cuvee, a rich Chardonnay blend, as well as their Grenache, a red that’s fermented in French Oak.

Village of Elgin Winery : Village of Elgin Winery is one of the area’s original wineries. Established here more than a quarter century ago, Village of Elgin is well known for hosting two annual wine festivals, taking place in April and September. Offering a full and unique selection of reds and whites, Village of Elgin ‘s wines will please any wine lover’s palate. We couldn’t pick just one as a favorite and were intrigued by unique offerings like their Blanc de Merlot (a white merlot) and the Sonoita Valley Tierra Dulce, a sweet red similar to a port. Village of Elgin ‘s Tombstone Red, a red and white blend, is very popular as well and widely available in retail outlets.

Kief Joshua Vineyards: Kief-Joshua is another newcomer to the wine scene here and is located in the cluster of wineries known as “Winery Row”, very close to many of the wineries listed above. Views from the tasting room are spectacular, overlooking scenic grasslands with mountains in the distance. Owner Kief Joshua Manning has been making wine since he was a teenager, and offers a small but impressive list of whites and reds. Try the refreshingly citrusy Viognier, and don’t miss the intense dark cherry flavor of their Cabernet Sauvingnon. We also bought a green chile dip mix in their gift shop which was one of the best dips we’ve had in years!

Sonoita Vineyards: Our last stop on this Wine Trail adventure is Sonoita Vineyards, the largest winery in this area and open since 1983. Their Arizona Sunset fruity rose wine was the first Arizona wine we tried many years ago. For a change of pace, try their Sonora Rossa. It’s a spicy light red wine that’s best served slightly chilled, perfect with Italian food.

If you’re ready to spend a bit more time in this area, consider an overnight stay at one of the area’s lodging options. You can find all the information at the Sonoita-Elgin Chamber of Commerce website at www.sonoitaelginchamber.org . Another option to extend your trip are the nearby historic towns of Tombstone and Bisbee. See our Recommendations section for more details.

TUCSON RECOMMENDATIONS:

Hotel Congress and Cup Cafe: www.hotelcongress.com Historic hotel and on site restaurant in the heart of downtown Tucson .

Arizona Sonora Desert Museum : www.desertmuseum.org . Wild animals and gardens in a unique setting. A must see.

Old Town Artisans: www.oldtownartisans.com . Shopping area located downtown with an emphasis on local/regional art and handcrafted jewelry and decorative accent pieces.

Fourth Avenue Shopping District: www.fourthavenue.org . Tucson ‘s urban shopping, dining, art, and nightlife destination.

Downtown Tucson Information: www.downtowntucson.org . The latest info on downtown Tucson .

Frog and Firkin: www.frogandfirkin.com . Great outdoor patio overlooking bustling university scene. Hand prepared pizzas, fresh salads, burgers, appetizers. All sorts of interesting Arizona beer on tap.

Elle Wine Country Restaurant: www.ellerestaurant.com . Approachable gourmet fare, great wine list, excellent happy hour specials. Try the steamed mussels.

Kingfisher Bar and Grill: www.kingfisherbarandgrill.com . Tucson ‘s destination for seafood with a Cajun twist. Great place to escape the heat during happy hour. Winner of a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence.

Cafe Poca Cosa: www.cafepocacosainc.com . Cuisine from all across Mexico , menu changes daily. Recommended by the Food Network.

ARIZONA WINE COUNTRY RECOMMENDATIONS:

Cafe Sonoita: www.cafesonoita.com . Casual and approachable gourmet with an outstanding wine list and rotating menu.

Sonoita-Elgin Chamber of Commerce: www.sonoitaelginchamber.org . Complete listing of stores, restaurants, bed and breakfasts, etc. in the Arizona Wine Country area.

Sonoita Realty: www.sonoitarealty.com Full service realty services in Sonoita area.

Xanadu Ranch Getaway: www.xanaduranchgetaway.com Reasonably priced, pet friendly lodging close to the wineries.

Historic Tombstone : www.tombstone.org . Old West town with numerous attractions for all ages. “The Town Too Tough To Die”

Historic Bisbee: www.discoverbisbee.com . Highly recommended for an overnight stay, particularly at the Copper Queen Hotel. Shopping and dining opportunities abound. Arizona Wine Country, Tombstone , and Bisbee is a perfect long weekend destination from Tucson or Phoenix .

Special thanks to Leslie Kramer of the Sonoita Elgin Chamber of Commerce for her knowledge and assistance!

Wine Trails USA

Just over 135 years ago, not long after the Civil War, European immigrants began establishing their new lives in the United States in earnest.

Many settled on the eastern seaboard, in large cities reminiscent of the large urban areas in Europe. Still others learned of areas whose geography reminded them of their homeland, with mountains, ripe rich valleys, and a temperate climate offering four distinct and vibrant seasons.

In particular, many German-Swiss immigrants traveled well into the south central United States to stake their claim. And back in the 1870′s, the beautiful Ozark Mountain area of northwestern Arkansas seemed an appropriate place to begin. Rolling mountains, while not quite the height or splendor of the Swiss Alps, offered a reminder of home. Lush green valleys and abundant fresh air provided more of the same. And so, a large German-Swiss settlement blossomed in the west/northwest area of Arkansas, “The Natural State”. Now, almost a century and a half later, this European influence is still felt in a unique area of the state, roughly between Little Rock in the state’s center and Fort Smith, at its’ western boundary. Not far off of Interstate I-40, about 50 minutes east of Fort Smith, you’ll find Arkansas Wine Country.

After settling in Franklin County near the current town of Altus, AR, these European settlers recognized the grape growing potential in the Arkansas River Valley. Mountains to the immediate north of this area have a moderating, protective effect against harsh winter freezes. Sloping soil that drained quickly and easily proved ideal for planting vineyards, and soon, the Arkansas wine history took root.

After Prohibition in the 1930′s, dozens of wineries found a ready market for their wines. Even today, historic vineyards in this area are run by 4th and 5th generations of founding family members. While most of the smaller wineries have left the industry, 5 historic wineries still meet the needs of tourists, local residents, and all manners of wine lovers. In fact, Arkansas remains the largest grape juice and wine producer in the southern United States. Arkansas is also home to three distinct official viticultural areas, designated in the mid 1980′s, including Altus, Arkansas Mountain, and Ozark Mountain.

Even though its city limits contain no wineries, let’s start our tour in Little Rock, the Arkansas Capital.

Little Rock is a compact, friendly city nestled along the banks of the Arkansas River. Proud of its heritage and building toward the future, Little Rock is a city of neighborhoods, live music, and passionate about barbeque. One of the most famous Little Rock neighborhoods is River Market, near downtown and the catalyst neighborhood for riverfront development. A center of cultural and nightlife activity, River Market teems with markets, unique shops, restaurants, and trendy bars and nightclubs. Just a short distance from River Market is an architectural throwback neighborhood, Quapaw Quarter. In this 9 square mile neighborhood, you’ll find beautiful 19th century homes, well worth a driving tour.

Further west from downtown are the Hillcrest and Heights neighborhoods. Hillcrest is another architectural treasure, boasting historic homes that are a showplace of this National Register of Historic Places district. The Heights, nestled along the Arkansas River bluffs, is a trendy, fashionable destination not to be missed. Along with River Market, The Heights teems with specialty boutiques, restaurants, cafes, antiques, and all sorts of interesting shops.

Lastly, let’s not forget about the Riverdale neighborhood, an upscale destination just a few miles west of downtown. Riverdale boasts a unique collection of restaurants, nightspots, and prime views of the Arkansas River.

WineTrailsUSA.com Little Rock Recommendations:

Eats:

- Mr. Mason’s Pit BBQ: www.mrmasons.com . Try the pulled pork and the beef brisket.

- Burge’s Hickory Smoked Turkeys and Hams: www.smokedturkeys.com For over 44 years, a real taste of Little Rock. Try the catfish and the po boys.

- Cajun’s Wharf: www.cajunswharf.com . Good food, live music, and a big deck overlooking the Arkansas River. Perfect for happy hour!

- Vino’s Brewpub: www.vinosbrewpub.com . Centrally located brewpub with specialty pizzas, excellent calzones, and of course, beer brewed onsite. Our favorite brew? 6 Bridges Cream Ale.

Sights:

- Arkansas Queen Riverboat: www.arkansasqueen.com . Sightseeing cruise on the Arkansas River, adjacent to downtown Little Rock.

- Clinton Presidential Center: www.clintonpresidentialcenter.org
Presidential museum and library.

- Heifer International Center “Green” Building tours: www.heifer.org . Learn about going “green” and tour a building dedicated to reuse and sustainable energy.

On To Arkansas Wine Country

Traveling west/northwest out of Little Rock (actually, North Little Rock) on Interstate 40, it’s about 140 miles to the heart of Arkansas wine country. As you travel outside of Little Rock, you’ll notice the topography changing … lush valleys and rolling mountains … a perfect subclimate for grape growing and wine making. Approximately two hours outside of Little Rock on Interstate 40, look for exit 41, Arkansas Route 186. Go south about five miles on 186 and you’ll enter the charming and historic town of Altus, heart of Arkansas wine country and home to four of the area’s wineries. Let’s take an in depth look.

Chateau Aux Arc Vineyards and Winery: Directly on Rt. 186, actually just two miles off I-40 and before you reach the town of Altus,is Chateau Aux Arc, the world’s largest propagator of Cynthiana grapes. Be sure to check out their gorgeous tasting room, situated on top of St. Mary’s mountain. Enjoy the view of the Arkansas River Valley while you taste the fruit of Chateau Aux Arc’s labor. We particularly enjoyed the 2005 Altage, a medium bodied Chardonnay/German blend, with hints of pear and a fruity finish. We also enjoyed Chateau Aux Arc’s Chardonnay, made without oak which sometimes obscures flavor. This chardonnay finished with a hint of grapefruit, which we felt made it an ideal complement to a fruit and cheese platter.

Mount Bethel Winery: Three generations of the Post family have proudly guided the Mount Bethel Winery, www.mountbethel.com . Just 1/4 mile east of the town of Altus, Mount Bethel Winery offers a full selection of reds, whites, and fruit wines. Since Arkansas is a renowned fruit producer, we decided to try the Elderberry and Blackberry wines, both produced from fruit grown and hand picked by the Post family. Both were sweet, tangy, and quite enjoyable. Mount Bethel is also renowned for their port wine, Big Daddy Port. Check with the winery as they were preparing to release a new line of port at press time.

Post Familie Vineyards and Winery: On to downtown Altus, where one block north on Rt. 186 stands the Post Familie Vineyards and Winery, www.postfamilie.com . They say the scenery in this area is just as beautiful as Napa Valley and we wouldn’t disagree! Post Familie is known for their muscadine wines (a southern specialty), as well as a very nice Pinot Grigio. Indeed, this is half the fun of visiting local wineries … you never know when you’ll find a new, unexpected gem or a new favorite. We bought a sampler pack, which Post Familie thoughfully offers in either dry, semi sweet, or sweet. Be sure to stop in their gift shop, which offers plenty of wines and local favorites like jams, juices, and local delicacies.

Wiederkehr Wine Cellars: A pioneer in the U.S. wine industry (Wiederkehr is Bonded Winery #8), Wiederkehr Wine Cellars is an introduction to the Swiss winemaking heritage. Housed in an Alpine lodge, Wiederkehr offers 45 minute winery and cellar tours for a behind-the-scenes glimpse into winemaking. We enjoyed a German-Swiss lunch in their onsite restaurant, the Weinkeller Restaurant. As for wine, try Wiederkehr’s deliciously dry Johannisberg Riesling or their unique, crisp Verdelet, a white wine made from a French developed grape variety. For an after dinner selection, try their Tawny Port, rich and warm.

Cowie Wine Cellars and Museum: Our last stop takes us to the smallest winery in Arkansas, Cowie Wine Cellars and Museum, www.cowiewinecellars.com . Located three miles west of Paris, Arkansas on scenic Rt. 22, Cowie Wine Cellars is a must stop, not just to taste and buy their wines, but also to see their museum, dedicated to the art of Arkansas winemaking and Arkansas wineries. Founder Robert Cowie and his seven children carry on the Arkansas winemaking tradition at their winery, originally bonded in 1967. Known for their port (Robert’s Port), Cowie Wine Cellars also offers a full, complex Cynthiana, and a crisp semi sweet Mount Magazine Mist, among others.

The Wine Museum traces Arkansas wine history through the last 130 years. Be sure to see the original wine press and other historic winemaking artifacts. Interestingly, this is the only museum in the United States dedicated solely to the wine history of one state. A new branch of the museum was recently opened in Hot Springs, a popular tourist stop further south in the state.

WineTrailsUSA.com Arkansas Wine Country Recommendations:

Weinkeller Restaurant at the Wiederkehr Wine Cellars for a traditional Swiss-German lunch or dinner.

Downtown Altus: stroll the town square and visit the unique independent shops.

Fort Smith, Arkansas: Just 40 miles west of Arkansas wine country is the historic city of Fort Smith, with an “Old West” vibe and numerous attractions. The main thoroughfare through the city is Garrison Avenue. The western end of Garrison Ave. is a shopper’s delight, complete with specialty shops and a family friendly retro amusement park. For dinner, try Logan’s Roadhouse, known for flame grilled steaks, cold long necks, made-from-scratch yeast rolls, and buckets of salted in the shell peanuts www.logansroadhouse.com .

So, how do you like your pizza?

Well, if you’ve ever been to the picture perfect seaside town of Mystic, CT, chances are you’ve been asked that question at the world famous Mystic Pizza. Mystic, CT and its historic seaport area sits a mere 100 miles from Boston, and less than an hour from downtown Providence, RI. Longtime home to generations of craftsmen and seamen, Mystic enjoys a distinguished reputation for seafood, history, shopping, and of course the aforementioned Mystic Pizza.

Just a mile off Interstate 95′s exit 90, you’ll arrive in Mystic, a bustling historic community filled with literally dozens of attractions.

Come hungry … there’s lot of great places to eat here in Mystic.

Of course, one of the most well known dining spots is the legendary Mystic Pizza, established in 1975 and the setting and inspiration for the 1988 hit movie. Located at 56 W. Main Street, stop by for their House Special pizza and maybe an appetizer of fried calamari. You might have to wait in line, because “A Slice of Heaven” isn’t just a slogan, it’s an apt description of Mystic Pizza’s pride and passion.

A few short blocks from Mystic Pizza, you’ll see Mystic Seaport, the nation’s leading maritime museum. Mystic Seaport isn’t only about tall ships and sea stories though, as you can find plenty to keep you occupied for hours on end. In more temperate months, take a sightseeing cruise on Long Island Sound, or amble through the recreated 19th century seaport village, aptly named Olde Mystic Village. Don’t forget to include time to visit our friends from the sea at the renowned Mystic Aquarium, and after all that eating, shopping, and touring, it’s time to kick back and relax at our first stop on the eastern Connecticut Wine Trail – Haight Vineyard Winery in Olde Mystic Village.

With wineries in both Mystic and at Litchfield in Connecticut’s northwestern area, Haight Vineyard Winery became the first “new” winery in Connecticut, in 1978. Of course, Connecticut – like most of our 50 states – has a long farm winery tradition and history, and here in New England, many of the wineries and vineyards stand on family farms which have existed for generations. In fact, Haight Vineyard Winery provides a respectful nod to winemaking history at its Mystic location. Wander through the fascinating displays of winemaking history and production, then stop in the tasting area to sample the fruits of Haight’s labor.

Haight produces breezy, refreshing wines, personified by their seasonal Estate White Wine, “Summer Breeze”. An immediate favorite after its introduction, Summer Breeze is produced from the Seyval Blanc grape variety, and flavored with a hint of honey and lemon. Don’t miss its sister wine, the medium bodied “Picnic Red”. Picnic Red is a friendly approachable wine, well suited for a Mystic picnic or Long Island Sound sunset. Before wrapping up your visit at Haight, sample their deliciously fruity and fresh “Covertside White” and their popular “Barely Blush”, an all seasons wine with just the right hint of sweetness.

Just a few miles away from the Mystic Seaport area are our next two Connecticut wineries, but if you’re in the area between March and October, take a few minutes off the beaten path for a quick bit at The Sea Swirl of Mystic, a casual throwback place serving soft serve ice cream cones, New England Milk Broth chowder, and local clams. A local institution for 50 years, the Sea Swirl is one of the best clam shacks around. As an added bonus, stop by at sunset and dine outdoors while enjoying the great view.

Just up the road from Sea Swirl, you’ll follow the blue Connecticut Wine Trail signs to Stonington Vineyards for a taste of some of winemaker Mike McAndrew’s European style table wines. Best known for its barrel fermented Chardonnays, Stonington also offers very enjoyable blends, like the off dry Seaport White and the well balanced Gewurztraminer. Take time to visit Stonington’s vineyards and learn firsthand why this Connecticut corner provides a perfect maritime microclimate, allowing for a long and perfectly cool growing season.

If you happen to be at Stonington in mid-October, be sure to coincide your visit with their Wine and Food Festival. Experience live music, samplings from local restaurants, cellar tours, and displays of unique local art. You can purchase a framed or unframed print in their gift gallery to take home as the perfect remembrance of your visit!

Just a short 10-15 drive away is the town of North Stonington, home of the charming Jonathan Edwards Winery. Have your camera fully loaded with film – Jonathan Edwards Winery offers some of the most picturesque settings you can imagine. Situated on a 48 acre hilltop, the winery offers a gorgeous view of the Atlantic Ocean (think: perfect spot for a picnic). Their gift shop not only offers their Napa Valley style wines, but various local taste treats including specialty cheeses, baguettes, olives, and dips. The winery’s slogan, “Where East Meets West”, provides a hint of their wine choices. The 2004 Connecticut Chardonnay, is owner/winemaker Jonathan Edwards’ first estate grown wine. Notice the fresh green apple and lemon bouquet as it complements the vanilla oak from their aging barrels. The winery also offers a smooth Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and plans many more estate bottlings in the near future.

TAKING A BREAK …

After three winery visits sandwiched in between various other tourist attractions, it might be time for a rest stop. Fortunately, just up Connecticut Route 2 from Jonathan Edwards Winery, you’ll intersect with Connecticut Rt. 169, one of the most scenic drives in the eastern U.S. Before heading into small town Lisbon CT to visit the Heritage Trail Vineyards, consider a stop at the Lonesome Dove Bed and Breakfast, situated on 3 acres adjacent to Rt. 169. The Lonesome Dove is renowned for the many species of birds that visit its grounds, including the namesake Mourning Dove. Indulge in all the amenities of a bed and breakfast, explore the grounds, and enjoy one of your wine purchases on their private deck overlooking a stream and Connecticut woods.

Just outside of Lisbon, you’ll find Heritage Trail Vineyards, located on 38 rolling acres in the heart of the Quinebaug-Shetucket National Heritage Corridor. Here, you’re invited to sample their various estate wines on their sundeck, with peaceful views of nearby woods, ponds, and wildlife. Try their Quinebaug White, produced from Vignole Blanc and Cayuga White grapes, giving it a crisp taste with just the right amount of sweetness. Or, for something a bit bolder, ask for the Cabernet Franc, a full bodied deep ruby red with a wonderful rich taste. Stop by to taste and say hello on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays from May to December.

Taking Rt. 169 back to Rt. 2 via I-395, head west from Lisbon approximately 30 miles to the historic town of Colchester, to Priam Vineyards. A member of the Connecticut wine scene since April 2003, Priam produces wines influenced by northern France and German styles. The 27 acre site features a vineyard high in the New London County hills, with a 35 mile view of the New England countryside. Owners Gloria Priam and Gary Crump encourage visitors to enjoy local cheeses available in their gift and tasting area, perhaps while enjoying a glass of their crisp Barrel Select Chardonnay or the floral, spicy Gewurztraminer. Don’t miss exhibits from local artists in the tasting room gallery.

Our 6th and final stop takes us due northeast less than an hour from Priam Vineyards in Colchester, to the small town of Pomfret via Rt. 66, 6, and 169. This area of Connecticut is affectionately known as “Connecticut’s Quiet Corner”, just 10 minutes from the Putnam, CT antiques district. Here, you’re literally 15 miles from both the Rhode Island and Massachusetts border, and holding fort in this corner of the state is Sharpe Hill Vineyard.

Sharpe Hill Vineyard is situated on over 100 acres, which on some points rise to over 700 feet, providing a spectacular view of the tri-state countryside. Visitors can enjoy a gourmet meal (by reservation) in the Wine Garden or the Fireside Tavern, which is reminiscent of a 19th century taproom. Open year around, Sharpe Hill delights visitors with a diverse selection of wines. Favorites include their brand new Dry Riesling, Ballet of Angels white, and their Red Seraph, a smooth blend based on the St. Croix grape. Sharpe Hill is very proud of their recent “Award in Excellence” from Zagat, and also for being the official wine for the U.S. Coast Guard Tall Ship Eagle.

Note: Always call ahead, information may change.

Mystic, CT Visitor Information: http://www.mysticmore.com

Mystic Pizza: http://www.mysticpizza.com

Mystic Seaport: http://www.mysticseaport.org

Mystic Aquarium: http://www.mysticaquarium.org

Haight Vineyard, Mystic and Litchfield CT: http://www.haightvineyards.com

Sea Swirl of Mystic (seafood shack and ice cream): http://www.seaswirlofmystic.com

Stonington Vineyards, Stonington CT: http://www.stoningtonvineyards.com

Jonathan Edwards Winery, North Stonington CT: http://www.jedwardswinery.com

Lonesome Dove Bed and Breakfast, Lisbon CT: http://www.lonesomedovebnb.com

Heritage Trail Vineyards, Lisbon CT: http://www.heritagetrail.com

Priam Vineyards, Colchester CT: http://www.priamvineyards.com

Sharpe Hill Vineyard, Pomfret CT: http://www.sharpehill.com

Wine Trails USA

Of the many fine reasons to visit Florida, Midwest winters rank right near the top. It’s a real treat to shed a layer or two of heavy winter clothing and spend some time along the Gulf Coast in Florida’s Panhandle area. We took a few days to visit wineries, enjoy the beaches, and immerse ourselves in the culture of two northern Florida cities.

Truth be told, December through early February is northern Florida’s offseason. Schools are in session, daytime temperatures linger in the 50′s and low 60′s, and spring break is still several weeks away. Summer is the tourist season here, when beachfront hotels and restaurants brim to capacity. Maybe we’re contrarians, but we think winter is the perfect time to visit Florida’s Panhandle. Hotel rooms are plentiful, as are dining specials. Attractions are uncrowded and relaxing.

Western Florida’s Gateway

One aspect of Florida we’ve always admired is its ecological diversity. This part of Florida has its beautiful beaches, to be sure. But stray inland a few miles along Interstate 10 and you’ll be immersed in dense forests and farm land. It’s a reminder that Florida is very agricultural, with agritourism playing an increasingly important role in the state’s travel industry. The Panhandle’s contrasts are amazing … stylish beachfronts give way to rural, farm like settings in mere miles.

You can easily spend a week or more here. Just east of the Alabama/Florida border, there’s the historic city of Pensacola, home to the largest stretch of undeveloped beachfront along the Gulf of Mexico. An hour or so east, you’ll find the resort communities of Destin and Panama City Beach, a spring break haven humming with a youthful vibe. An hour from here is beautiful Tallahassee, Florida’s capital and home of Florida State University. There’s plenty to do, plenty to see, and lots of space to stretch out and relax.

Our plans called for one night’s stay in each of Pensacola, Panama City Beach, and Tallahassee. To be frank, it wasn’t nearly enough. In four days, we took in a few wineries, ample fresh seafood, and more gorgeous natural scenery than anyone has a right to. Entering the state from the west, our first stop is the City of Five Flags, Pensacola.

Pensacola And The Gulf Islands National Seashore

After an early afternoon of shopping in Mobile Bay’s eastern shore communities, it was a short hop over to Pensacola for our first night in Florida. The clock ticked toward happy hour, so we couldn’t pass up a visit to the venerable Florabama Lounge, billed as America’s Last Great Roadhouse and situated smack dab on the Alabama/Florida border.

The Florabama Lounge is a perfect place to get your groove on, with live music and Gulf views setting the scene. It’s a casual, funky place, delightfully tacky in some ways, ideal for a few cold beers, fresh oysters, and an order of steamed red royal shrimp. Don’t forget to send a postcard and buy a kitschy souvenier from the gift shop. From here, you’re only 15 minutes away from historic Pensacola.

With just over 400,000 population, Pensacola is small enough to have the personal touch and large enough to be cosmopolitan. We were surprised to learn that Pensacola is North America’s oldest European settlement, dating back to 1559. Spanish settlers soon started to grow grapes here, but more about that later. The city itself has been under the control of Spain, France, Great Britain, the Confederacy, and the United States, hence the nickname City of Five Flags.

In and around the area, you’ll find historic sites, pristine beaches nuzzling up to emerald green waters, and good old fashioned Southern charm. There are ample hotels on Pensacola Beach, many with fantastic offseason deals in January and February. Our plans called for a beach stroll, dinner with a view, and a splash of Irish pub style nightlife.

Pensacola area visitors will find some of the most beautiful beaches in the world at Perdido Key and Pensacola Beach. We had a chance to explore Gulf Islands National Seashore, the longest tract of protected seashore in the country. You can fish, surf, collect seashells or just soak in the sun and scenery.

Out on Pensacola Beach is the Paradise Bar and Grill, a comfortable destination we imagine would be buzzing in high season. The view is spectacular, the fish is fresh, and the beer is cold. Our dinner consisted of grilled fish sandwiches (grouper and amberjack) and beer boiled Gulf shrimp. The sunset was an added bonus!

From here, it was off to a place we’ve long wanted to visit, McGuire’s Irish Pub. Located on Gregory Street in downtown Pensacola, McGuire’s is housed in Pensacola’s original firehouse building. Billed as a “turn of the century New York Irish saloon”, McGuire’s is friendly and fun. They offer a pub menu but the real star is the beer, brewed onsite. McGuire’s is Florida’s original brewpub, and you won’t go wrong with a pint or two of McGuire’s Irish Stout or the chocolatey McGuire’s Porter. We learned McGuire’s is quite renowned for their steaks and burgers, and they looked and smelled great coming out of the kitchen. There’s nightly entertainment and a congenial, welcoming crowd.

Pensacola Sights

The next morning proved ideal for exploring a bit of Pensacola’s natural beauty. Several state parks offer perfect vistas for enjoying views of the Gulf, particularly Bay Bluff Park, with huge dune bluffs overlooking the water. We also spent some time at nearby Edward Ball Nature Preserve, home of “Captain Thunder”, a 10 foot long 3-legged alligator, who seems thriving and content despite loss of limb.

With some late morning time devoted to sightseeing, we hit the Pensacola Historic District to wander the specialty shops. Of particular note is Atelier Alcaniz Art and Gift Gallery, where you won’t be able to help yourself from taking home a unique piece of pottery, hand spun in back. There’s also Suellen’s Secret, a fresh and feminine resale shop offering great bargains on previously loved fashions. And don’t miss the Aragon Wine Market for unique wines from around the world. Top it off with lunch at the renowned and entirely approachable Atlas Oyster House, just steps away from all the shops.

Pensacola Pecans And An Afternoon Of Florida Wine Tasting

While we’re in the shopping mood, if there’s one place you absolutely must visit while in Pensacola, it’s the J.W. Renfroe Pecan Company, five minutes north of downtown on Fairfield Drive. Serving the Pensacola area for over 50 years, J.W. Renfroe Pecan Company offers a unique shopping experience. The gift shop has all sorts of chocolate covered, roasted and salted and natural nuts, as well as a variety of fruit mixes, salty snack mixes and chocolate-coated fruits. To further add to the decadence, you’ll find two dozen varieties of homemade fudge and pralines.

There’s a special room here called the “Jelly Room”. Shelves are filled with a wide array of marmalades and jellies. We’ve never seen so many in one place in our lives! All of the products are made in Florida, including hard-to-find items like Mayhaw jelly and Whole Fig preserves. But if you can’t visit, never fear … J.W. Renfroe ships nationwide.

From here, we were back on the road, departing from Pensacola via I-10 eastbound for a 45 minute drive to the small Florida town of DeFuniak Springs and a visit to Chautauqua Vineyards.

If the name Chautauqua rings a bell to Wine Trails USA readers, Chautauqua is the same name as a Pennsylvania wine trail we visited last summer. Chautauqua Vineyards chose the name because the town of DeFuniak Springs was long the winter home to many residents of Chatauqua County, New York. The vineyard, in production since 1979, is about a dozen miles north of DeFuniak Springs, while the winery has been in production since 1989.

Chautauqua Vineyards is open every day for tasting and shopping from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Settle in at the tasting bar and try the Cabernet, a rich dry red offering delicious fruit flavor. Another we really liked was Sugar Sands White, made from Niagara grapes but surprisingly only moderately sweet. Also try the Blueberry and the full range of festive Muscadine wines. You can purchase all sorts of interesting Muscadine products, like bath soap, jams, candles, and more. And if your travels keep you near the beach, Chautauqua’s products are also available at their sister outlet, Emerald Coast Wine Cellars in Destin, a resort community on the Gulf of Mexico.

From Chatauqua Vineyards, it’s a short 20 minute drive on the way to Panama City for a stop at Three Oaks Winery in the town of Vernon. A family operation in business for over 20 years, this is truly a Florida farm winery. Look around and you’ll think you’re hundreds of miles from the nearest beach. There’s dense forest alongside farmland, a tranquil setting more indicative of the Midwest than the far southeast.

Alas, Three Oaks wasn’t open the day we arrived, as January hours are Friday and Saturdays only. This drives home an important point for wine travelers … call ahead. Many winery owners are more than happy to make themselves available for a tasting and purchase if they’re given reasonable advance notice. Unfortunately, with our tight schedule for this trip, we couldn’t make the arrangements. But be sure to check out Three Oak’s website for all the details and pay them a visit if you’re in the Panhandle.

Panama City: Sparkling Sand And Emerald Beaches

Having missed out at Three Oaks and with a few hours to spare, our first stop in Panama City Beach was Sea Breeze Winery, an apropos name to be sure.

Sea Breeze Winery has been open since 2003 and uses grapes grown at their north Florida vineyard, about 35 miles from the winery. A wide variety of muscadine grapes are used in the wines, including Noble, Carlos, Magnolia, and more. You can tour the winery seven days a week and watch bottling operations or learn about winemaking techniques. Sea Breeze is very proud of their wines and rightfully so … they’ve won dozens of awards from prestigious wine competitions all over America.

We spent about two hours here, taking in a tour and enjoying leisurely wine tasting. There are about ten wines to taste, depending when you visit. Our favorites were the drier muscadine blends, like Sea Breeze Horizon White, perhaps our favorite on the entire trip. It’s fruity and the citrus flavors practically burst right from the glass. The finish is crisp, with the sweetness in the middle palate. If you’re more into reds, try Sea Breeze Horizon Red, chock full of dark fruit flavor with a spicy lingering finish. Slightly sweeter are the Sea Breeze Palmetto White and Red, and the Blush, a blend of the two.

Sea Breeze Winery is one of Panama City’s best attractions, one you shouldn’t miss. Of course there’s the lure of beaches and other waterfront diversions, and dozens of options for dining and nightlife. Our descriptions don’t do justice to the area’s beauty, and our only regret is we didn’t have more time to really kick back and enjoy. When you visit, you’ll understand why so many people love this part of the Gulf Coast for a one week stay or even a winter home.

Tallahassee

From Panama City, it’s an hour to Tallahassee, Florida’s capital. Tallahassee is often dubbed “The Other Florida” because it’s a lot closer to Atlanta than Miami and in fact is only about 20 miles south of the Georgia state line. Tallahassee is also distinct in its topography and climate compared to the rest of the state. There’s a real blend of cultural styles here. Academic, government, and artistic influences are felt all over the metropolitan area.

Arriving mid morning, we were intent on seeing everything we could in Tallahassee, while saving enough time to visit Monticello Vineyards and Winery, east of the city.

We thought the best way to get acquainted was to visit the Tallahassee Visitor Center and Gift Shop, downtown on Jefferson Street. We picked up a free map outlining a self guided walking tour of the Capitol Downtown Cultural District. The tour highlights numerous cultural and historical sites within a roughly 10 square block area surrounding the Capitol building.

A walking tour like this is something we don’t do often enough. You can really learn about a city, take pictures, and create all kinds of “remember when” moments. We enjoyed visiting the Florida Capitol, particularly the 22nd floor observation deck and gallery. You’ll also encounter some of Tallahassee’s beautiful green spaces and architecture. We covered the entire tour in about 90 minutes, enjoying the exercise and working up an appetite for lunch at a local’s favorite, Birds Oyster Shack.

On Bronough Street just a block over from Duval, this place is a mix of locals, students, and those in the know (I guess that’s us!). The menu is limited, but it does the trick … oysters, burgers, chicken sandwiches, and grouper. Not to mention two great down home beers on tap, Pabst Blue Ribbon and Yuengling, the pride of Pennsylvania now also brewed in Florida. Our decision was simple: a dozen oysters, two grilled grouper sandwiches, and a pitcher of Yuengling. Wow, that was good!

From here, you’re very close to a fun, quaint shopping district called Railroad Square, where you’ll find all sorts of small artistic shops and specialty stores. It’s well worth visiting for an hour or two. Visit their website for all the details.

Florida’s Organic Winery

Twenty miles east of Tallahassee in Monticello, Florida is Monticello Vineyards and Winery, the pride and joy of owner Cynthia Connolly. Cynthia has developed a 50 acre U.S. Certified organic farm here and grows crops like Meyer lemons, grapefruit, persimmons, figs, and grapes. The entire operation is organic and self sustaining, with nothing artificial whatsoever. You can even buy organic eggs here.

The winery, although just part of a larger farm operation, really takes center stage. We found two favorites among the wines offered, Florida Red and White Muscadine. Both are full bodied and complex, fruit focused, and wonderfully balanced. Florida Red is medium dry and benefits from a slight chill. White Muscadine is a blend of white muscadine grapes and stacks up well against semi dry table wines. Another good choice is Carlos, a crisp, fruity white wine available in dry or semi sweet. This little winery is becoming increasingly popular, and for good reason. It’s a northern Florida agritourism destination and a model for organic farms in the south. If you’re anywhere near the Tallahassee area, be sure to stop for a visit.

Heading back to the city, we planned drinks and dinner at a downtown Tallahassee institution, Andrew’s Capital Grill and Bar. We found this place earlier in the day on our walking tour, as it’s situated quite near the Florida capitol building. This is where the movers and shakers hang out, but it’s not stuffy or formal whatsoever. Andrew’s is a welcoming, casual place where you’ll enjoy great drinks and great food. We loved our dinner, a pulled pork loin sandwich with carmelized onions on a rustic roll, and a delicious eggplant sandwich that really hit the spot.

Summary

Spend a few days here in Florida’s Panhandle to whet your appetite for this beautiful area. Better yet, spend a week or spend the winter. Things move at a relaxed southern pace and the beaches and emerald green water will leave you breathless. We intend to visit again soon, not only to enjoy the area’s wineries, but more fully explore everything this corner of Florida has to offer.

While Florida has no official wine trails, a Florda Panhandle wine trail would be ideal. It’s easy traveling from one winery to the other, as everything is within two hours maximum driving time. You’ll absolutely love Pensacola, and there are all sorts of sites to check out along the coast. With bargains a plenty in the offseason, you’ll really get a flavor for what this part of Florida is all about. We hope you enjoy it as much as we did!

Cheers!

RECOMMENDATIONS:

Pensacola Visitors Information: www.visitpensacola.com

Pensacola Historic District Shopping: Visit their website at pensacolahistoricdistrictmerchants.com

Paradise Bar and Grill: www.paradisebar-grill.com

FloraBama Lounge: www.florabama.com

McGuire’s Irish Pub: www.mcguiresirishpub.com

J.W. Renfroe Pecan Company: www.renfroepecan.com

Tallahassee Visitor Information: www.visittallahassee.com

Birds Oyster Shack: www.birdsoystershack.com

Railroad Square Shopping District: www.railroadsquare.com

Andrew’s Capital Grill and Bar: www.andrewsdowntown.com

THE WINERIES:

Chautauqua Vineyards: www.chautauquawinery.com

Three Oaks Winery: www.threeoakswinery.com

Sea Breeze Winery: www.seabreezewinery.com

Monticello Vineyards and Winery: www.monticellowinery.com

Wine Trails USA

There’s a certain pride encompassing the state of Illinois these days.

2009 marked the 200th anniversary of the birth of our 16th President, Abraham Lincoln. Throughout Illinois, various towns connected to Lincoln’s life and times celebrated, and tourism blossomed. The entire state is honoring its past and looking forward to better times ahead.

In the midst of these celebrations and rememberances, the Illinois agricultural scene keeps rolling along. Wherever you travel in Illinois, you’ll see farms, orchards, and fields dotting the landscape. A topographically diverse state, the Land of Lincoln offers scenic delights to those taking the road less traveled.

The Illinois Wine Scene

Much like the surrounding states of Missouri, Iowa, and Indiana, Illinois offers several appealing destinations to wine travel lovers. You’ll find clusters of wineries in every part of the state, including metropolitan Chicago. Grapes grow well here, and Illinois vintners display their creativity by making a tempting array of wines that are attracting national press.

Our destination for this trip, the Shawnee Hills Region, is an official American Viticultural Area, established in late 2006. It’s the first AVA in Illinois. In essence, designation as an AVA tells the general public the grapes, and wines, are unique and special. Further, wines can be labeled Estate Bottled if 80% of the wine grapes originate from the AVA’s region.

As of 2010, Illinois boasts almost 60 wineries. You’re never far from a great wine experience here in Illinois!

All Aboard For Wine Country

In the far southern part of the state, less than an hour from the Kentucky border, you’ll find the Shawnee National Forest region. This lush, green, almost rugged territory stretches 80 miles east to west and about 20 miles north/south. The northern gateway to the area is the college town of Carbondale, home to Southern Illinois University and a convenient Amtrak hub for travelers heading to Memphis or New Orleans.

It had been years since either of us had taken a train journey to explore the country, so with a sense of adventure we booked round trip service on Amtrak’s Illini line. We relished the thought of relaxing with a good book and enjoying the Illinois landscape on the way to Illinois’ first wine country, the Shawnee Wine Trail.

Riding The Rails

If nothing else, we knew riding Amtrak would be a good economic choice, even with the need for a rental car in Carbondale. Just for your own reference, we left Chicago’s historic Union Station on the Illini at 4:05 p.m. Thursday afternoon for the 5 1/2 hour journey. The Sunday return left Carbondale at 5:15 p.m. and arrived in Chicago at 10:45 p.m., leaving plenty of time to catch a train out to the suburbs. Round trip cost? A paltry $64 each.

Obviously, there’s less flexibility when choosing train travel, and delays are common. But there are certain advantages, especially if a long drive isn’t your style. We did enjoy some scenery along the way, although most of the trip was after twilight. It’s a comfortable trip though, and many passengers enjoyed reading, playing cards, or napping in reclining seats that are frankly much more comfortable than air travel. There are snack cars and lighter meals available, although we packed our own deli sandwiches. Bathrooms were clean too! Travel updates from the conductor were an added plus … if there was a delay, we knew where, when, and for how long.

Bottom line … we’d do it again! Amtrak is an excellent option, particularly for destinations where you won’t need to rent a car.

Arriving in Illinois Wine Country

With a late Thursday arrival and two full days of wine touring ahead of us, we headed straight for our lodging after arriving in Carbondale. Our choice, which we highly recommend, is the Giant City Lodge, 12 miles from the Amtrak station.

Giant City Lodge, located in Giant City State Park, was originally built in the 1930′s by the Civilian Conservation Corps. Local building materials were used, and the lodge itself is a sturdy structure of sandstone and white oak timber. One of the lodging options is the Historic Cabins, which was our choice for our weekend stay.

The “historic” cabins are actually newer cabins which sit on the sites of the original cabins built 70 years ago. These one room cabins are charmingly comfortable and clean. For families, larger cabins are available. The only downside we saw is that pets are not allowed, but if you want to bring your pet, there are several other lodging options in the area.

Day One On The Shawnee Wine Trail

The next morning, fresh off a great breakfast and a spirited hike in Giant City State Park, we headed off to begin our wine exploration for the weekend with a stop at Owl Creek Vineyard. Immediately, we learned why the Shawnee Hills Region is ideal for wine travelers.

All ten wineries are within 15 miles of one another, and while the roads are a bit winding, the scenery is so gorgeous and the air so fresh and clean, the short drives are very enjoyable.

This beautiful region is bordered by the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, and the land is anywhere from 400 to 800 feet higher here than the immediate surrounding area. This in and of itself creates a unique microclimate. It’s cooler in summer, warmer in winter, and there’s a longer growing season, along with consistent summer breezes which help dry out the grapes and vineyards. The soil drains well, and it’s rich in sandstone and limestone. In short, a perfect area for growing grapes!

There are 10 wineries on the Shawnee Wine Trail, and a little simple math told us we could visit them all in 2 1/2 days. Both Friday and Saturday called for four winery visits each, with two left over for early Sunday afternoon. This is an ideal schedule for the dedicated wine tourist. A good, hearty breakfast followed by two late morning winery visits. Then, a stop for lunch and sightseeing, and two more wineries in the afternoon.

And so, our day one agenda consisted of visits to Owl Creek Vineyard, Blue Sky Vineyard, Orlandini Vineyards, and finally Star View Vineyards. This makes for a leisurely, interesting day, with plenty of time to enjoy the scenery and a local lunch stop.

Our first stop on the trail is Owl Creek Vineyard, located just over 4 miles from Giant City State Lodge. Open since 1995, this family operated vineyard and winery uses grapes that are well known in this region, like Chambourcin, Norton, Seyval Blanc, Chardonnel, and a new favorite of ours, Villard. Owl Creek is a true taste of southern Illinois, as all wines are made with grapes grown in this area.

For starters, we liked ChardonOwl, a toasty white in the Chardonnay style and made with Chardonnel grapes. From the red side, try Owl’s Leap, a great Chambourcin style wine with hints of clove and anise. Every wine here is filled with depth and intrigue. We recommend you find out if Owl Creek can ship to your state, as their wines are great examples of the Shawnee Region AVA.

When you leave Owl Creek, proceed three miles up Water Valley Road and you’ll arrive at Blue Sky Vineyard, our second stop of the morning. This is one of the most beautiful winery settings on this or any other wine trail. A large Tuscan style winery building and tasting room set the stage, with two outdoor terraces overlooking row after row of vines.

We were a bit early for lunch, but Blue Sky is a perfect stop if you’re hungry. Items like pulled pork on a croissant, pizza, and chicken salad round out a nice menu, and of course, there are numerous wines for you to taste!

Our favorite was Infinity, a semi dry white made with Geisenheim grapes. All sorts of fruit flavors will dance with your taste buds – we sensed ripe melon and grapefruit. Perhaps even more outstanding was the Chambourcin Reserve, a multiple award winner that just might be the best of this style we’ve had. We loved the dark cherry flavors mingling with rich dark spices, along with a burst of vanilla mid palate.

We should also mention you can stay here at Blue Sky Vineyard, in their adjacent bed and breakfast. We had a peek – it’s gorgeous – and the view of the vineyard and surrounding countryside is spectacular. It’s definitely on our radar for our next visit. Blue Sky also offers live music on Sundays, and frequent special events like art auctions and holiday themed parties.

Now it was off to Orlandini Vineyard, where we planned a picnic lunch by their peaceful vineyard pond. Orlandini’s location is atop one of the highest ridges in southern Illinois, so be prepared to be impressed by the view.

With plenty of time on our hands, we decided to split a bottle of Orlandini’s White Chambourcin. A white chambourcin is created by removing grape skins during the early part of the wine making process. The result is an almost blush colored wine with all the spicy fruit stylings of a good Chambourcin. We left with two bottles to add to our Illinois wine collection, along with a bottle of Vidal, a semi dry white full of grapefruit flavor.

Later on Friday afternoon, we visited our final winery of the day, Star View Vineyards. This is another perfect place to enjoy a glass of wine outdoors. There’s a large, expansive deck that overlooks koi ponds and the surrounding countryside. Make sure to visit the gift shop here, as there are all sorts of one of a kind gifts for those on your list!

We visited on a beautiful fall day, so we decided to buy a glass of wine each and enjoy the deck. The two Star View wines we tried were Silver Star, a white, and Norton, a red.

Silver Star is an easy sipper, slightly sweet. It’s a blend of white grapes, with Niagara in the forefront. We were intrigued by the Norton, a style common to nearby Missouri wineries. We found Star View’s Norton exceptional, bursting with dark fruit flavors and complex on the palate. What a perfect happy hour!

Dinner At Giant City

Retreating back to Giant City Lodge as darkness set in, we ambled over to the large, comfortable dining room for a traditional Friday night fish fry. We’re big fans of fish frys, and this one was southern Illinois style. Catfish, hushpuppies, and cole slaw paired nicely with wines offered from Shawnee Wine Trail wineries. At $10 each, it was great food at a bargain price.

In fact, we enjoyed the food so much here that we came back for dinner the next night … fried chicken, mashed potatoes, home made buscuits, and side dishes for the same $10 price.

There are numerous small towns in the area with local restaurants, so you’ll have plenty of choices if you want to wander. Also, it’s well worth noting the charming town of Cape Girardeau, Missouri is only 25 miles away. We visited there late Sunday morning and early afternoon. There’s a French influence in Cape Girardeau and it’s well worth your time if you’re a fan of historic river towns.

Day Two On The Trail

Saturday brought us the opportunity to visit the western side of the Shawnee Wine Trail. After another brisk morning hike, our first winery of the day is Inheritance Valley in the small hamlet of Cobden. Cobden is 2 miles south of the more well known Alto Pass, and 7 miles north of Jonesboro.

Open since 2003, Inheritance Valley offers a pleasant tasting room and free tasting of six wines. We decided to splurge a bit and buy a wine glass and unlimited tastings for $3 each.

We really enjoyed our time here because Inheritance Valley offers a real sample of southern Illinois. Almost all of their grapes and other fruits are locally grown. When you stop here, be sure to try the various port wines as they are a house specialty.

Our favorite Inheritance Valley wine was Two Worlds. This off dry red wine is a blend of two grapes that do very well here, Cabernet Franc and Norton. Another very enjoyable choice was Roadside Red, a little sweeter and softer on the palate.

Next on the agenda was the unofficial wine center of southern Illinois, Alto Pass. Here you’ll find three wineries – Hedman Vineyards, Alto Vineyards, and Von Jakob Winery. You can easily visit all three in one afternoon, they are that close to one another. If you arrive at lunch time as we did, Hedman is a great place to start. You can enjoy an old fashioned Swedish lunch at the Peach Barn, on the winery grounds and quite well known in these parts.

Hedman Vineyards is one part bed and breakfast, one part cafe, and one part winery. It’s a unique destination and one of the most popular attractions in the area. Do eat here if you get a chance. We stopped for lunch and among other delicacies enjoyed the sampler platter. This Swedish delight offered tastes of all the following: pickled herring, creamed caviar, Swedish meatballs, lingonberries, and hardboiled eggs. You can also indulge on a very good pecan crusted chicken breast salad, served with warm homemade bread.

The tasting room is adjacent to the cafe, and we recommend the Chambourcin and the Tucker Hill Red. Chambourcins are prominent here, and in neighboring Missouri. Full bodied, spicy, and smooth, this was a winner. For something slightly sweeter, Tucker Hill Red fits the bill. It’s a blend of Chambourcin and Concord, with neither grape dominating the flavor.

Alto Vineyards has long been on our radar. It’s the oldest and largest winery in the area and one of the most well known and respected in Illinois. This pioneering winery was the first to plant grapes for commercial wine production in the early 1980′s.

We noted the Alto wines are widely available around the area, but you really should stop here if you’re in this neck of the woods. There’s a relaxed, peaceful vibe and it’s a great place to spend an hour or two. The gift shop is stocked with unique specialty foods and you can relax on the grounds with a glass of Alto wine for only $3.

We particularly enjoyed the white wines here, perhaps because we focused on reds at Hedman. Nonetheless, you won’t go wrong with Heartland White, a semi dry offering with the pleasant scent of lemon petals and apple palate. Another favorite was Wiener Dog White, a charming blend of several grapes with pear and mango tones. If you’re so inclined, buy a few bottles to go. Prices are reasonable!

Saturday afternoon’s last winery was Von Jakob Winery, where you can cozy up to the indoor or outdoor fireplace and sample any of their 20+ wines. We split the difference between red and white here and enjoyed Von Jakob’s White Chambourcin, and fun and fruity blush. We also picked up a few bottles for home and can definitely recommend Chateau Red, a real bargain at $11. This deep, complex red bursts with flavors of black cherry and pairs wonderfully with a grilled rib eye!

And On The 7th Day … We Drank Wine

With our Amtrak departure scheduled well into the afternoon, we were able to visit the final two wineries on the Shawnee Wine Trail. Our first, Pomona Winery, is quite near one of the most well known natural attractions in the area, Little Grand Canyon.

Little Grand Canyon is a hikers and naturalists paradise, with towering sheer cliffs, vegetation, and wildlife galore. We didn’t hike here, as it’s a bit beyond our Sunday morning skill level, but we saw a few families and couples navigating the terrain. There’s a great view from the top, an arms length experience we quite enjoyed.

We arrived at Pomona Winery just after noon, ready to sample some of Pomona’s unique apple wines. Wine lovers often look down their nose at apple wines, but we’ve always been fans. The combination of tart and sweet is a delight, and we’ve been intrigued by the various blends and styles. Our favorite here was the Jonathan Oak Aged Reserve, kind of combination chardonnay and apple wine. You’ll note the delicious apple taste along with the oakiness found in the chardonnay style, balanced with the mellowness of aging. This wine has won several Midwest wine competition medals and is one of the most unique apple wines we’ve ever tried.

Pomona offers nine other wines, including some interesting port style and dessert wines. All are made with fruit grown in the immediate area.

From here, it was on to Kite Hill Vineyards in Carbondale. This was our last stop as it’s not far from the Amtrak station. It’s a beautiful setting, with a charming bed and breakfast just waiting for you to visit. Stroll around the adjacent lake or sidle up to the expansive outdoor deck and enjoy a glass of Traminette or White Chambourcin. We took a bottle of each to go, and headed to the Amtrak station for our journey back to Chicago.

The Shawnee Hills Wine Trail is ideal for a weekend escape. You’ll enjoy the abundance of nature and a blossoming array of unique wineries to tempt your taste buds. And if you don’t want to drive, Amtrak takes you right to the trails front door.

We enjoyed the peaceful train ride back to Chicago’s Union Station, nodding off along the way. We encourage you to visit southern Illinois wine country and relax in the natural splendor of the Midwest!

Cheers!

The Wineries:

Alto Vineyards: www.altovineyards.net

Blue Sky Vineyard: www.blueskyvineyard.com

Hedman Vineyards: www.peachbarn.com

Inheritance Valley: www.inheritancevalley.com

Owl Creek Vineyard: www.owlcreekvineyard.com

Pomona Winery: www.pomonawinery.com

Star View Vineyards: www.starviewvineyards.com

Von Jakob Vineyard: www.vonjakobvineyard.com

Kite Hill Vineyards:www.kitehillvineyards.com

Orlandini Orchard: Information at www.shawneewinetrail.com

Wine Trails USA

Join us as we explore Indianapolis and the wineries of the Indy Wine Trail …

Indianapolis

Indianapolis has long been an overnight stopping point for us, typically on the way to Cincinnati or points further south. It’s a crossroads city of sorts, with Interstates 65 and 74 intersecting the metropolitan area. It’s an ideal place for a weekend visit, particularly since it’s not more than a half days drive from much of the north central part of the U.S.

Over the years, Indianapolis has evolved from a rather non descript midwestern city to a metro area emphasizing the arts, neighborhoods, and community pride. It’s the capital city of Indiana, and everything starts downtown, where the venerable Soldiers and Sailors Monument has stood since 1904.

One of the best attributes of Indianapolis is the ease of getting around, a real blessing for those of us frequently tied up in urban traffic. Interstate 465 loops around the entire metro area, and you typically aren’t more than 20 minutes away from any section of the city. Another encouraging aspect of Indianapolis is the community’s emphasis on urban green space. One of the best state parks we’ve ever encountered is practically adjacent to downtown, White River State Park. You’ll often find joggers, kayakers, and hikers here, or enthusiastic crowds attending the many outdoor concerts held on the grounds.

The Indy Wine Scene

Indianapolis was one of our first introductions to small local wineries. Twenty or so years ago, we discovered Easley Winery just east of downtown. Our curiousity was piqued and we haven’t looked back since! Neither has Indiana for that matter … at last count the state is home to 40 wineries with more in the planning stages.

Just as Indianapolis is the heart of Indiana, so too is the wine scene. The Indy Wine Trail is one of three in the state. We were really impressed with the organization of each individual trail. There are numerous events throughout the year and each month brings a new reason to visit an Indiana winery. Further, the prestigious Indy International Wine Competition is held here each June, bringing together some of the finest wineries in the world.

The Indy Wine Trail itself consists of seven wineries. None are really that far from downtown Indianapolis although they are scattered in all directions (a great way to explore the entire area). Allow yourself two full days to get to all the wineries, with a little sightseeing sprinkled in between. We stayed downtown in order to enjoy walking around the heart of the city, but pretty much anywhere out on I-465 is just as convenient.

Indianapolis Sightseeing

This being our 8th or 9th visit to Indianapolis, we really enjoyed getting back to some favorite neighborhoods for shopping, dining, and strolling. Indianapolis is really blessed with some great areas, and kudos to the hard working merchants and planning officials who’ve turned these neighborhoods into destinations.

Three of the neighborhoods you won’t want to miss are Mass Avenue, Broad Ripple, and Fountain Square. Each are perfect for an afternoon stroll, capped off with a happy hour drink and leisurely meal at one of the many independent restaurants.

If you’re inclined to take in a little fresh air and get the blood pumping, we recommend the Indianapolis Cultural Trail, a 7.5 mile urban bike and walking trail that links many of the city’s neighborhoods, including Mass Avenue and White River State Park. This beautiful park, just steps from downtown and home to the Indianapolis Zoo, offers acres of green space. Also here is The Lawn at White River, a gorgeous outdoor concert facility on the banks of the scenic White River. The Lawn attracts all the big name musical entertainers for popular concerts all summer long.

One of our favorite Indy attractions is the Indianapolis Motor Speedway and Museum – Home of the Indy 500. Take a bus tour of the historic track. You’ll be amazed at the steep bank on the four turns of the course. Don’t go here after drinking wine!

Another long time landmark to visit is the Soldiers and Sailors Monument, at Monument Circle which is the absolute center of downtown. It’s arguably Indianapolis’ most famous historic landmark, rising 300 feet over the downtown streets. Unfortunately when we visited the observation level was closed for repairs but it was reopened in October 2009.

Shopping

Start your day at the Mass Avenue Arts District, a walkable 5 block area adjacent to downtown, filled with galleries, boutiques, handsome architecture and a wide array of contemporary restaurants. Here you’ll find the Indianapolis City Market, a public market since 1821. It’s a perfect spot for breakfast (we recommend the omelets at Cafe Olivia), and be sure to pick up some local potato chips from the Amazing Potato Chip Company. For a more healthy treat, stop at The Good Stuff, a natural products store with all sorts of good-for-you food choices and numerous natural bath and body products. Also on Mass Avenue is Global Gifts, a free trade store with unique home decor items hand produced by artists and craftsmen from over 35 countries.

Another neighborhood we visit each time in town is Broad Ripple, a short 15 minutes northeast of downtown, not far from I-465. Plan for a few hours here and stop for dinner at the Broad Ripple Brew Pub, a neighborhood mainstay on 65th Street for over 19 years.

Indy Eats

For a special Saturday night dinner, there’s no better choice than St. Elmo’s Steakhouse, the most historic restaurant in Indianapolis and a fixture here since 1902. It’s a great splurge or special occasion place and the steaks are absolutely top notch. Their signature must-try appetizer is the shrimp cocktail, at $14.95 on the pricey side but worth every cent.

For a casual lunch, stop at King David Dogs, on Pennsylvania Street in the shadow of Monument Circle and an Indy institution since 1941. These are hot dogs served just right, on a steamed poppy seed bun and with your choice of toppings.

We also enjoyed Scotty’s Brewhouse, kind of a hybrid between a trendy club and a casual burger joint (sounds strange but you need to experience it!). Sit out on the patio and enjoy a great meal along with your choice of adult beverage.

The Wineries

We visited six of the seven on the Indy Wine Trail, only missing

Grape Inspirations in nearby Carmel, Indiana, north of Indianapolis. Grape Inspirations places most of its focus on helping people make their own wine. It’s a franchise operation and a popular destination for parties and get togethers. Nearby is Ferrins Fruit Winery, our first stop entering the Indianapolis area. We stopped here for a glass of Desert Lily, a white wine in the Pinot style, and a fantastic apricot wine, the semi dry Apricot Nectar. We brought home two bottles of this tasty wine – it’s perfect with Asian chicken stir fry.

Heading into downtown before some shopping on Mass Avenue, we visited Easley Winery, an Indy wine scene mainstay. They offer wine tasting seven days a week and have been here since 1974. They source all their grapes from local Indiana vineyards so this is a real sample of Indiana wine. Our favorites here are the Governers Riesling and the smooth and pleasing Orchestra Red.

On the southeast side of the city in suburban Plainfield, IN is one of Indiana’s largest wineries, Chateau Thomas Winery. This is a big operation, with banquet facilities and an on site farmers market. There are frequent special events, both associated with the Indy Wine Trail and also unique to Chateau Thomas. Most recently, events included a summer BBQ and Music On The Veranda.

We were fortunate to have beautiful summer weather, perfect for having a glass of wine on the patio. Pinot Grigio seemed the ideal summer choice, making for a very enjoyable hour overlooking the surrounding area.

Traveling southeast from Chateau Thomas is Mallow Run Winery, on the south end of Indianapolis in Bargersville, IN. We really enjoyed it here, especially the eight acres of rolling vineyards just outside the tasting room. Grapes grown here include Chardonel and Traminette, both of which thrive in Indiana’s climate. Our favorite wine here is the Seyval Blanc, which is 100% Indiana produced (always something we seek out on our wine journeys). It’s got a crisp tast of pineapple and pear, without the overly oakey taste that can overwhelm other whites.

East and southeast of downtown are two other interesting wineries on the Indy Wine Trail. Buck Creek Winery is just a few minutes southeast of I-465 off I-74 and was our first Saturday afternoon stop. It’s one of Indiana’s newer wineries, opened in 2006. The setting here is peaceful – calm, serene and an ideal place to relax for an hour or so. Four acres of vineyards greet you as you arrive, and it’s these vineyards that produce 12 varieties of grapes used in Buck Creek’s wines.

Start your wine tasting with Alley Cat, a fruity and slightly spicy red that awakens your taste buds. We took three bottles home and enjoy it with hamburgers. Amore is a well balanced Chambourcin, while Autumn Blush is one of the better blush wines we’ve had in quite a while. All in all, there are over two dozen wines to savor here, so take your time, choose your favorite style, and enjoy!

The furthest winery from downtown Indianapolis is Simmons Winery in Columbus, Indiana. It’s not far off I-65, about 30 minutes south of the city. This Indiana farm winery is home to over 12 acres of vineyards growing the best grapes Indiana has to offer. Our favorite here was the Marechal Foch, a rich, semi dry red. Also well worth the visit is Nortonburg Red, a smooth and slightly sweet Chambourcin.

Summary

We’re always delighted to visit Indianapolis! From a wine perspective, we’re delighted with the ongoing efforts of the Indy Wine Trail. Their many events serve to bring Indianapolis wineries to the forefront of the Indiana wine scene and we applaud their enthusiasm.

And while we visited in the summer, don’t let the seasons dictate your visit to Indianapolis. Autumn and spring are beautiful here, and winter is more temperate than areas further north. Best of all, the city is easy to navigate. Downtown is a great place to stay and you’ll find most attractions within a 15 minute drive.

Cheers!

Recommendations:

Indianapolis Visitors Bureau: www.goindy.com

Mass Avenue Arts District: www.discovermassave.com

Broad Ripple Neighborhood: www.discoverbroadripplevillage.com.

St. Elmo’s Steakhouse: www.stelmos.com

King David Dogs: www.kingdaviddogs.com

Scotty’s Brewhouse: www.scottysbrewhouse.com

Broad Ripple Brew Pub: www.broadripplebrewpub.com

The Wineries

Indy Wine Trail: www.indywinetrail.com

Ferrins Fruit Winery: www.ferrinsfruitwinery.com

Easley Winery: www.easleywinery.com

Chateau Thomas Winery: www.chateauthomas.com

Mallow Run Winery: www.mallowrun.com

Buck Creek Winery: www.buckcreekwinery.com

Simmons Winery: www.simmonswinery.com